Perfumes and their preparation : $b Containing complete directions for making handkerchief perfumes, smelling-salts, sachets, fumigating pastils; preparations for the care of the skin, the mouth, the hair; cosmetics, hair dyes, and other toilet articlesAskinson, George William
Science
Perfumes and their preparation : $b Containing complete directions for making handkerchief perfumes, smelling-salts, sachets, fumigating pastils; preparations for the care of the skin, the mouth, the hair; cosmetics, hair dyes, and other toilet articles
Askinson, George William
Cosmetics; Perfumes
In this way, of course, the pomade acquires a very large surface and
rapidly yields the aromatic substance to the alcohol. The odor of
the pomade differs according to the length of time which it has been
subjected to the flowers, and on being treated with alcohol furnishes
extracts of corresponding strength. This should be borne in mind in the
manufacture of perfumes which are intended to be uniform in quality.
After two cold and one warm infusion of the pomade, it may be made to
yield some more aromatic material by heating it carefully to its exact
melting-point, when extract again appears on the surface and can be
poured off by gentle inclination of the vessel.
In the following pages we give the proportions by weight and
measure employed by the most important French, English, and German
manufacturers for their pomade extracts or solutions of the essential
oils in alcohol. As to the latter we again repeat that it must be over
88 to 90% strength according to Tralles or even stronger, and that it
must be absolutely free from any trace of amyl alcohol (potato fusel
oil), the least amount of which impairs the delicacy of the odor. In
this country (the United States) there is no difficulty whatever in
obtaining alcohol of proper strength. The market offers scarcely any
other but that of 94%. Of course deodorized alcohol, or so-called
Cologne spirit should be used. Grain and wine spirits are the kinds
which when rectified are to be preferred to all others. All the citron
oils (_i.e._, oils of lemon, bergamot, and those with similar odor),
rose oils (oils of rose, geranium, and rhodium), and many other sweet
scents are most fragrant when dissolved in pure spirit of wine, while
the odors from the animal kingdom and those of violet (violet and orris
root) smell sweetest when dissolved in grain spirit.
The essences prepared from pomades or huiles antiques usually contain
in solution some fat which is best removed by cooling. To this end the
vessels containing the essences are placed in a vat and surrounded with
pellets of ice and crystals of chloride of calcium. By this mixture the
temperature can be reduced below-20° C. (-4° F.), and after some time
the fats are deposited in a solid form at the bottom of the vessel.
This is then taken from the vat and the essence carefully poured from
the sediment.
The alcoholic extracts of the pomades or solutions of the aromatics are
called essences or extracts (French, extraits); the solutions obtained
from resins and balsams are usually termed tinctures.
While some extracts, owing to their strong odor, can be used only when
diluted with alcohol, others are employed in perfumes as such. Pure
extracts (extraits purs) are those containing only a single odor and
are but rarely used as perfumes; the latter are usually mixtures of
several, often a great many odors.
CHAPTER XI.
DIRECTIONS FOR MAKING THE MOST IMPORTANT ESSENCES AND EXTRACTS.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
Reviews
Reviews
No reviews yet
Be the first to share your thoughts on this work.
Elsewhere in the archive
Join the Discussion
Join the discussion
Sign in to leave a comment or review.
Sign InorCreate an account