Perfumes and their preparation : $b Containing complete directions for making handkerchief perfumes, smelling-salts, sachets, fumigating pastils; preparations for the care of the skin, the mouth, the hair; cosmetics, hair dyes, and other toilet articlesAskinson, George William
Science
Perfumes and their preparation : $b Containing complete directions for making handkerchief perfumes, smelling-salts, sachets, fumigating pastils; preparations for the care of the skin, the mouth, the hair; cosmetics, hair dyes, and other toilet articles
Askinson, George William
Cosmetics; Perfumes
According to the action of the alcohol upon the pomade or huile antique
at ordinary or higher temperature, the process is called cold or warm
infusion. Cold infusion furnishes the odor in a much more delicate and
superior form than the warm. The cold infusion requires for complete
solution of the aromatic four to six weeks; the warm, ten to fourteen
days. Although the former consumes a much longer time, it is to be
preferred, as the heat injures the odor. Pomades or huiles antiques are
never completely exhausted by a single treatment with alcohol. Even
when heat is employed they always retain a portion of the aromatic with
great tenacity; a second and third infusion still abstracts odor from
them, and finally nothing remains but pure fat with a pleasant odor
which is stained and sold commercially as pomade under the name of the
respective odor—violet, orange flower, reseda, etc.—or else is used
over again in the factory for the extraction of flowers.
Experience has shown us that it is best to infuse the pomades or huiles
antiques twice in the cold and to use the two fluids united for the
finest perfumes; the residue by warm infusion furnishes an essence of
second quality, and superior pomades or fragrant oils. The infusion is
generally effected in strong glass bottles of a capacity of three to
five gallons; about five to six quarts of cologne spirit being poured
over six to eight pounds or pints of fat or huile antique.
In treating huiles antiques all parts of the oil should be brought into
contact with the alcohol as much as possible, hence the bottles must
be frequently shaken; a better plan is to bring the tightly closed
bottles into an apparatus in which they are constantly agitated by
rotation. Such an apparatus is easily made by placing the bottles in
an inclined position between two rods fastened to a common axis which
is kept revolving. The adjoining illustration (Fig. 32) shows such a
contrivance which is required also in the manufacture of perfumes. The
rotation may be effected by clockwork, water power, or any other motor.
[Illustration: FIG. 32.]
Pomades being solid must be divided into small pieces which may be done
with a knife, but the following procedure is more suitable and less
laborious. The pomade is placed in a tin cylinder four inches wide and
about a foot high, which is open at one end, the other being closed
with a tin plate having several fine openings. The cylinder filled with
pomade is set upon the bottle containing the alcohol for extraction,
and the pomade is pressed through the openings in the shape of thin
threads by means of a piston.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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