--The military tribes and the royal guard --Men of the people as great monarchs --Persian sense of humour --Nightingales and poetry --Legendary origin of the royal emblem --Lion and Sun --Ancient Golden Eagle emblem --The Blacksmith's Apron the royal standard CHAPTER VI. --The Order of the Lion and the Sun --Rex and Dido --Dervishes --Endurance of Persian horses --The Shah's stables --The sanctuary of the stable --Long-distance races --A country of horses --The _gymkhana_ in Tehran --Olive industry near Resht --Return journey --Grosnoje oil field --Russian railway travelling --Improved communication with Tehran CHAPTER VII. _THE SITUATION IN PERSIA_ (1896). I. --Shrine of Shah Abdul Azim --Death of Nasr-ed-Din Shah --Jemal-ed-Din in Tehran --Shiahs and Sunnis --Islam in Persia CHAPTER VIII. _THE SITUATION IN PERSIA_ (1896). II. --The Shah Mozuffer-ed-Din --His previous position at Tabriz --Character and disposition --His sons --Accession to the throne --Previous accessions in the Kajar-dynasty --Regalia and crown jewels --Position of the late Shah's two sons, Zil-es-Sultan and Naib-es-Sultaneh --The Sadr Azem (Grand Vazir) --Prompt action on the death of the late Shah * * * * * LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS H.I.M. NASR-ED-DIN, THE LATE SHAH, ON THE STEPS OF THE PEACOCK THRONE FEMALE PIPE-BEARER OF THE ANDERUN PERSIAN LADY AT HOME ARMENIAN MOTHER AND CHILDREN THE PRESENT SHAH (WHEN VALI-AHD) ENTERING HIS CARRIAGE PERSIAN TURK OF THE MILITARY TRIBES A MENDICANT DERVISH OF TEHRAN A DERVISH STORY-TELLER OF TEHRAN H.I.M. MOZUFFER-ED-DIN SHAH H.H. ALI ASGHAR KHAN, SADR-AZEM * * * * * INSCRIPTION ON THE SEAL OF THE LATE SHAH, SHOWN ON THE COVER. '_El Sultan, Bin el Sultan, Bin el Sultan, Bin el Sultan. El Sultan, Nasr-ed-Din Shah, Kajar_.' '_The King, Son of the King, Son of the King, Son of the King. The King, Nasr-ed-Din Shah, Kajar line_.' * * * * * PERSIA REVISITED CHAPTER I. --London to Baku --Oil-wells and works --Persians abroad --Caspian steamers --Caspian salmon --Enzelli lagoon --The Jews in Persia --Resht trade --'My eye' --Russian road --The tobacco 'strike,' 1891 --Collapse of Tobacco Régie --Moulla opposition. The Persians, as a people still nomadic in their habits, and much given to long pilgrimages, have good knowledge of the ways and means of making a journey pleasant. Their saying, '_Avval rafîk, baad tarîk_' (First a companion, then the road), is one which most travellers can fully appreciate. Accordingly, when planning a trip in the autumn of 1895 to the Land of Iran, I cast about for a companion, and was fortunate enough to meet with two friends, both going that way, and who, moreover, like myself, had previously journeyed in Persia.