Peru is a land of violent extremes. It has a range of mountains as
great as any in the world. The towering peaks are too high to climb.
Far above circles the condor, the largest bird in the world. Peru
is the source of the world’s greatest river system, whose luxuriant
forests are too thick to penetrate. The only representatives of a lost
geological age inhabit them, as well as the biggest snakes and the
smallest birds. Peru has great mineral deposits in the mountains; it
also has rubber in the forests. Wool is produced on the frozen plains,
and chocolate in the deep gorges lost among them. And from the valleys
intersecting the desert come cotton and sugar-cane.
All kinds of obscure substances are found in this versatile country,
ipecac and cochineal, cocaine and vanadium. Not unlike the rest of the
world, chill here produces fever, but quinine, the best remedy for the
disease of contrast, comes also from the forests of Peru.
Although nature is a supreme fact, its natural history is not the whole
of Peru. And contrast as a method of interpretation does not fail for
its other aspects. Though man seems to play so small a part, he has
lived here since antediluvian animals wandered among coal forests on
the Andes. To the charm of limitless nature is added the mystery of
great peoples destroyed before they were known. The riches of the Incas
and of the glittering, vice-regal Spanish days, when continents were
found, taken, and explored, contrast with present poverty. Consistently
throughout, the riches of Peru have impoverished it. Its gifts have
caused its ruin over and over again.
Wars and rebellions have riddled the country, and bull-fights have
filled leisure hours. Though audacity of action has fascinated
historians of Peru, its periods of peace have in them even more of
romance: a nation of slaves ruled by a monarch-god; oriental splendor
of Lima shining because of forced labor in the dark, suffocating mines;
Arab blood in the conquerors’ veins penetrating the quiet Indian
people, adding a keener edge to their sufferings. The poverty of the
present-day Indians contrasts with lavish nature, “beggars sitting on a
pile of gold.” Contrasts of nature, of people to country, of antiquity
to the present--these diverse elements are insistent wherever one turns.
The charm of contrasting facts is puissant. Almost any one of them
might be the text for an allegory. To guard against rhapsody, I have
documented every statement made. Conservative authority can be given
for every fact, however fantastic, however trivial. The few legends
are in a sense also facts: “_Une légende ment parfois moins qu’un
document._”
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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