Peru as It Is, Volume 1 (of 2): A Residence in Lima, and Other Parts of the Peruvian Republic, Comprising an Account of the Social and Physical Features of That CountrySmith, Archibald
History
Peru as It Is, Volume 1 (of 2): A Residence in Lima, and Other Parts of the Peruvian Republic, Comprising an Account of the Social and Physical Features of That Country
Smith, Archibald
Peru -- Description and travel
“O thou that rollest above, round as the shield of my fathers, whence are
thy beams, O Sun! thy everlasting light? Thou comest forth in thy awful
beauty; the stars hide themselves in the sky; the moon, cold and pale,
sinks in the western wave; but thou thyself movest alone. Who can be a
companion of thy course?”
The Indian’s eyrie on the summit of some steep and lofty mountain,
(seldom visited by a white man, save the curate,) may be easily passed
many times unnoticed by a stranger, who has occasion to go over the usual
routes in any of the principal ravines and valleys of the Sierra, and
who may never be led to suspect its existence till he one day meets a
swift-footed Indian, closely followed by a person on a well-accoutred
and elegant mule, whose gear is all laden with silver ornaments; and
the rider, who sits at his ease in a saddle of the country with a rich
pellon, wears a large-brimmed hat, with a black silk cap emerging to
view at the ears and temples. He has on at least a couple of ponchos
(mantles) well-decorated and fringed; his black or brown stockings are
of warm Vicuña wool; and the heel of a small shoe, half-concealed in a
clumsy and costly, though wooden stirrup, is armed with a prodigiously
disproportioned silver spur, with a large tinkling roller, used to keep
his noble animal in mind that she is but the harbinger of death, and
carries on her back the keeper of the sinner’s conscience.
This minister of peace to the miserable, hurries to save the soul of a
dying Christian, whose abode, like the falcon’s, overlooks the ordinary
path of wayfaring men; and which, when descried, seems, to the sight of
an observer underneath, to be indeed the loftiest earthly point between
the ground he himself stands upon and that heaven for which, it is
believed, the anxious and fluttering spirit of the gasping Indian, only
waits the curate’s absolution and blessing to wing its immortal flight.
It occurs to us here to remark, that in the remote curacies of the hills
no friars are to be seen, as on the coast or more genial climates; an
important part of whose duty it is, wherever they locate themselves, to
aid the Christian to die well, and to watch by his pillow, and exhort
and comfort him, while the crucifix and taper are ever before his eyes,
and the breath of life about to leave his animal frame. But, destitute
of these helps, the curate or curate-substitute, whose calling renders
him the most influential person and only spiritual comforter in an
Indian village, makes, in the appearance we have offered to describe,
his rapid way over hill and cliff, broken ravine and dangerous path, on
a chosen traveller, whose movements are so gentle that she never wearies
the rider. This mule seems not to make any trying exertion, while she
leaves all ordinary beasts of her kind behind her on a day’s journey, and
ascends a cuesta of three or four leagues without stopping once to draw
breath, and again descends the same without missing a foot or slackening
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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