Peru as It Is, Volume 1 (of 2): A Residence in Lima, and Other Parts of the Peruvian Republic, Comprising an Account of the Social and Physical Features of That CountrySmith, Archibald
History
Peru as It Is, Volume 1 (of 2): A Residence in Lima, and Other Parts of the Peruvian Republic, Comprising an Account of the Social and Physical Features of That Country
Smith, Archibald
Peru -- Description and travel
Our priest also engaged to supply mines, in the adjacent country, with
salt for benefiting or preparing metals, which the Caurimen, with their
little broad-backed and hardy nags, are used to convey from Huacho on the
coasts of the Pacific, by the vale of Sayan, across the Cordillera. He
was withal a watch-maker to the neighbouring villages within many leagues
of his residence, and knew, if we forget not, how to put the church organ
to rights when out of repair.
His people were apparently fond of so stirring and general a speculator;
and as they can only grow for themselves, and that in the most sheltered
corners, very bad potatoes, with frequent failures in the harvest,
(though their common yields good pasture,) their pastor supplied them
with maize, (as the miner in isolated localities supplies, at large
profits, maize and clothing, &c. to his workmen,) on which, with
potatoes, cheese, eggs, and guinea-pigs, they principally support
themselves. Butter they rarely know how to churn; and, as the milk is
chiefly used for making cheese, it is not often drunk as an article of
nutriment, save by those who live in small round booths, that are ever
and anon guarded by a host of noisy curs, with hair as shaggy and matted
as that which covers the heads of the urchins that feed them. These
pastoral huts are scattered over the distant plains and ranges of the
mountains throughout the “estancias,” or tracts of hilly pasture-land
allotted for rearing and feeding cattle and sheep. At such estancias and
huts, the traveller in the interior of Peru has frequently to rest for
the night.
The poor Indian owner of a few horned cattle, will rather languish with
hunger than slaughter one head of his fold for his private consumption;
but he who owns a small flock of sheep can more conveniently sustain
himself on meat and “caldo,”—mutton tea, (for vegetables are commonly
wanting to make that kind of broth which is to be found at the
grain-grower’s,) especially when any traveller passes that way, who
buys one of his small sheep—much smaller on the hills than in the warm
valleys—for use on the road, and employs the Indian himself to butcher
it. These inhabitants of the snowy range, or lofty dales of the Andes,
we frequently met,—and they are easily known by their warm clothing,
capacious chests, and ruddy complexions,—descending from the frigid
regions to the temperate and grain valleys, to barter for the vegetable
productions of the agriculturist fresh mutton, which, already skinned and
free from offal, they carry on donkeys (animals which in the hands of
the Indian escape the cruel stripes and goads inflicted on them by the
merciless negro or zambo); and this meat, like beef, being previously
dried in the sun, is laid up for use by the dweller of the warm and
narrow glen overhung by scorched and rocky acclivities, who places it
before the traveller, under the usual name of “charque,” of which we have
often eaten with a good appetite.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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