Peru as It Is, Volume 2 (of 2): A Residence in Lima, and Other Parts of the Peruvian Republic, Comprising an Account of the Social and Physical Features of That Country — John Shaqi
Peru as It Is, Volume 2 (of 2): A Residence in Lima, and Other Parts of the Peruvian Republic, Comprising an Account of the Social and Physical Features of That CountrySmith, Archibald
History
Peru as It Is, Volume 2 (of 2): A Residence in Lima, and Other Parts of the Peruvian Republic, Comprising an Account of the Social and Physical Features of That Country
Smith, Archibald
Peru -- Description and travel
Huanuco is not to be confounded with the ancient town called Leon de
Guanuco, of which the remarkable remains are still well worth visiting on
the high pasture-land of Huamalies: for the city now called Huanuco, or,
as some write it, Guanuco, is in a delightful valley, twenty-two leagues
in a north-easterly direction from the mines of Cerro Pasco, with a
descent of about seven thousand feet; thus situated, as nearly as may be,
half-way in respect to altitude between Cerro Pasco and the ocean.
In the first three leagues of our descent from the mines to the vale, we
pass by a number of mills for grinding metal, preparatory to its being
mixed with salt and quicksilver for the purpose of amalgamation. These
are situated in a narrow rocky glen; the rugged road through it lying
often along the bed of the stream that wanders down it, putting a great
many mills successively in motion as it is directed into troughs or
canals leading to the clumsy machinery of the haciendas, to which the
ore is conducted at great trouble and expense, on the backs of mules,
donkeys, and llamas.
From the village of Quinoa, only three leagues from Cerro, and once
celebrated for its gold mine, to the village of Cajamarquilla, two
leagues lower down, the road is furrowed, deep, and miry during the wet
season; but the pasture-grounds are good, and upon these the cattle of
the miners are sent to feed at small expense. From two to three leagues
below Cajamarquilla, of which we took notice in our account of Cerro
Pasco, is Huariaca, a small town with a large plaza, or square, and very
good houses. This town is the centre of a curacy and seat of a governor,
with a climate analogous to that of Obrajillo on the road between Lima
and Cerro, or Cerro Pasco, formerly noticed. Its artificial productions
are also the same as we formerly mentioned, viz. maize, wheat, beans,
potatoes, &c.; but here natural vegetation is more luxuriant, and the
air exceedingly benign: the frosts are seldom so keen as to blight or
wither the parks of lucern, and troublesome heat is unknown. Huariaca is
endeared to the memory of many a Cornish miner, who lost his health in
Cerro Pasco, and at this rendezvous for convalescence rejoiced in the
smiling aspect of nature, and enjoyed the delightful feeling of returning
health. The writer, in common with several of his countrymen, has to
lament the premature death of the curate of this place, Dr. Don Pablo de
Marticurena; whose intelligence, hospitality, and amiable disposition
rendered him an object of love and respect, while his house was the home
of the traveller, and the abode of charity, without distinction of creed
or country. A league below Huariaca, we cross a bridge placed over the
small river of Cono or Pallanchacra, a short distance above which is the
famous tepid mineral well of Cono; to which, as it is in a temperate
little glen, the sick have frequent recourse. On the banks of this stream
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