With the exception of the Jura, whose pastoral summit is about 3000 feet
above the sea, there are no elevated table-lands in the Alps: the
tabular form, so eminently characteristic of the Asiatic high lands,
begins in the Balkan. The Oriental peninsula rises by degrees from the
Danube to Bosnia and Upper Macedonia, which are some hundred feet above
the sea; and the Balkan extends 600 miles along this elevated mass, from
the Julian Alps to Cape Eminec on the Black Sea. It begins by a
table-land 70 miles long, traversed by low hills, ending, towards
Albania and Myritida, in precipitous limestone rocks from 6000 to 7000
feet high. Rugged mountains, all but impassable, succeed to this, in
which the domes and needles of the Schandach, or ancient Scamus, are
covered with perpetual snow. Another table-land follows, whose marshy
surface is bounded by mural precipices at Mount Arbelus, near the town
of Sophia. There the Hemus, or Balkan properly so called, begins, and
runs in parallel ridges, separated by longitudinal valleys, to the Black
Sea, dividing the plains between the Lower Danube and the Propontis into
nearly equal parts. The central ridge is passable in few places, and
where there is no lateral ridge the precipices descend at once to the
plains.
The Balkan is everywhere rent by terrific fissures across the chains and
table-lands, so deep and narrow that daylight is almost excluded. These
chasms afford the safest passes across the range; the others along the
faces of the precipices are frightful.
The Mediterranean is the southern boundary of the elevated zone of
Eastern Europe, whose last offsets rise in rocky islands along the
coasts. The crystalline mountains of Sardinia and Corsica are outlying
members of the Maritime Alps, while shorter offsets end in the plains of
Lombardy, forming the magnificent scenery of the Italian lakes. Even the
Apennines, whose elevation has given its form to the peninsula of Italy,
are but secondary on a greater scale to the broad central band, as well
as the mountains and high land in the north of Sicily, which form the
continuance of the Calabrian chain.
The Apennines, beginning at the Maritime Alps, enclose the Gulf of
Genoa, and run through the centre of Italy in parallel ranges to the
middle of Calabria, where they split into two branches, one of which
goes to Capo de Leuca, on the Gulf of Torento, the other to Cape
Spartivento, in the Straits of Messina. The whole length is about 800
miles. None of the Apennines come within the line of perpetual snow,
though it lies nine months in the year on the Gran Sasso d’ltalia, 9521
feet high, in Abruzza Ulteriore.
Offsets from the Julian and Eastern Alps render Dalmatia and Albania
perhaps the most rugged tract in Europe; and the Pindus, which forms the
watershed of Greece, diverges from the latter chain, and, running south
200 miles, separates Albania from Macedonia and Thessaly.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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