Much of this country is covered by an excellent but thin soil, fit for
corn, which grows luxuriantly wherever it has been tried; but a stiff
cold clay at a small distance below the surface kills every herb that
has deep roots, and no plants thrive but those which can resist the
extreme vicissitudes of climate. A very wide range is hopelessly barren.
The country from the Caucasus, along the shores of the Black and Caspian
Seas—a dead flat, twice the size of the British islands—is a desert
destitute of fresh water. Saline efflorescences cover the surface like
hoar-frost. Even the atmosphere and the dew are saline, and many salt
lakes in the neighbourhood of Astrakan furnish great quantities of
common salt and nitre. Saline plants, with patches of verdure few and
far between, are the only signs of vegetable life, but about Astrakan
there is soil and cultivation. Some low hills occur in the country
between the Caspian and the Lake of Aral, but it is mostly an ocean of
shifting sand, often driven by appalling whirlwinds.
Turkistan is a sandy desert, except on the banks of the Oxus and the
Jaxartes, and as far on each side of them as canals convey the
fertilizing waters. To the north, barrenness gives place to verdure
between the river Ural and the terraces and mountains of Central Asia,
where the steppes of the Kirghiz afford pasture to thousands of camels
and cattle belonging to these wandering hordes.
Siberia is either a dead level or undulating surface of more than
7,000,000 of square miles between the North Pacific and the Ural
mountains, the Polar Sea and the Altaï range, whose terraces and offsets
end in those plains, like headlands and promontories in the ocean. M.
Middendorf, indeed, met with a chain of most desolate mountains on the
shores of the Polar Ocean, in the country of the Samoides; and the
almost inapproachable coast far to the east is unexplored. The mineral
riches of the mountains have brought together a population who inhabit
towns of considerable importance along the base of the Ural and Altaï
chains, where the ground yields good crops and pasture; and there are
forests on the undulations of the mountains and on the plains. There are
many hundred square miles of rich black mould covered with trees and
grass, uninhabited, between the river Tobal and the upper course of the
Obi, within the limit where corn would grow; but even this valuable soil
is studded with small lakes of salt and fresh water, a chain of which,
300 miles long, skirts the base of the Ural mountains.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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