North of the 62d parallel of latitude corn does not ripen on account of
the biting blasts from the Icy Ocean, which sweep supreme over these
unprotected wastes. In a higher latitude, even the interminable forests
of gloomy fir are seen no more: all is a wide-spreading desolation of
salt steppes, boundless swamps, and lakes of salt and fresh water. The
cold is so intense there that the spongy soil is perpetually frozen to
the depth of some hundred feet below the surface; and the surface
itself, not thawed before the end of June, is again ice-bound by the
middle of September, and deep snow covers the ground nine or ten months
in the year. Happily, gales of wind are not frequent during winter, but
when they do occur no living thing ventures to face them. The Russian
Admiral Wrangel, who travelled during the most intense cold from the
mouth of the river Kolyma to Behring’s Strait, gives an appalling
account of these deserts. “Here endless snows and ice-covered rocks
bound the horizon, nature lies shrouded in all but perpetual winter,
life is a constant conflict with privation and with the terrors of cold
and hunger—the grave of nature, which contains only the bones of another
world. The people, and even the snow smokes, and this evaporation is
instantly changed into millions of needles of ice, which make a noise in
the air like the sound of torn satin or thick silk. The reindeer take to
the forest, or crowd together for heat, and the raven alone, the dark
bird of winter, still cleaves the icy air with slow and heavy wing,
leaving behind him a long line of thin vapour, marking the track of his
solitary flight. The trunks of the thickest trees are rent with a loud
noise, masses of rock are torn from their sites, the ground in the
valleys is rent into yawning fissures, from which the waters that are
underneath rise, giving off a cloud of vapour, and immediately become
ice. The atmosphere becomes dense, and the glistening stars are dimmed.
The dogs outside the huts of the Siberians burrow in the snow, and their
howling, at intervals of six or eight hours, interrupts the general
silence of winter.”[33] In many parts of Siberia, however, the sun,
though long absent from these dismal regions, does not leave them to
utter darkness. The extraordinary brilliancy of the stars, and the
gleaming snowlight, produce a kind of twilight, which is augmented by
the splendid coruscations of the aurora borealis.
The scorching heat of the summer’s sun produces a change like magic on
the southern provinces of the Siberian wilderness. The snow is scarcely
gone before the ground is covered with verdure, and flowers of various
hues blossom, bear their seeds, and die in a few months, when Winter
resumes his empire. A still shorter-lived vegetation scantily covers the
plains in the far north, and, on the shores of the Icy Ocean, even
reindeer-moss grows scantily.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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