This long belt of never-failing vitality, which has its large lakes,
poisonous swamps, deep forests of gigantic trees, and vast solitudes in
which no white men ever trade, is of small width compared with its
length. In receding from the mountains, the moisture becomes less and
the soil gradually worse, sufficing only to produce grass for the flocks
of the wandering Bedouin. At last a hideous barren waste begins, which
extends northwards 800 miles in unvaried desolation to the grassy
steppes at the foot of the Atlas; and for 1000 miles between the
Atlantic and the Red Sea the nakedness of this blighted land is unbroken
but by the valley of the Nile and a few oases.
In the west about 760,000 miles, an area equal to that of the
Mediterranean Sea, and, in some parts, of a lower level, is covered by
the trackless sands of the Sahara desert, which is even prolonged for
miles into the Atlantic Ocean in the form of sandbanks. This desert is
alternately scorched by heat and pinched by cold. The wind blows from
the east nine months in the year; and at the equinoxes it rushes in a
hurricane, driving the sand in clouds before it, producing the darkness
of night at midday, and overwhelming caravans of men and animals in
common destruction. Then the sand is heaped up in waves ever varying
with the blast; even the atmosphere is of sand. The desolation of this
dreary waste, boundless to the eye as the ocean, is terrific and
sublime; the dry heated air is like a red vapour, the setting sun seems
to be a volcanic fire, and at times the burning wind of the desert is
the blast of death. There are many salt lakes to the north, and even the
springs are of brine; thick incrustations of dazzling salt cover the
ground, and the particles, carried aloft by whirlwinds, flash in the sun
like diamonds.
Sand is not the only character of the desert; tracts of gravel and low
bare rocks occur at times, not less barren and dreary; but on the
eastern and northern borders of the Sahara, fresh water rises near the
surface, and produces an occasional oasis where barrenness and vitality
meet. The oases are generally depressed below the level of the desert,
with an arenaceous or calcareous border enclosing their emerald verdure
like a frame. The smaller oases produce herbage, ferns, acacias, and
some shrubs; forests of date-palms grow in the larger, which are the
resort of lions, panthers, gazelles, reptiles, and a variety of birds.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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