In the Nubian and Libyan deserts, to the east of the Sahara, the
continent shelves down towards the Mediterranean in a series of
terraces, consisting of vast level sandy or gravelly deserts, lying east
and west, separated by low rocky ridges. This shelving country, which is
only 540 feet above the sea at the distance of 750 miles inland, is cut
transversely by the Nile, and by a deep furrow parallel to it, in which
there is a long line of oases. This furrow, the Nile, and the Red Sea,
nearly parallel to both, are flanked by rocky eminences which run north
from the table-land.
On the interminable sands and rocks of these deserts no animal—no
insect—breaks the dread silence; not a tree nor a shrub is to be seen in
this land without a shadow. In the glare of noon the air quivers with
the heat reflected from the red sand, and in the night it is chilled
under a clear sky sparkling with its host of stars. Strangely but
beautifully contrasted with these scorched solitudes is the narrow
valley of the Nile, threading the desert for 1000 miles in emerald
green, with its blue waters foaming in rapids among wild rocks, or
quietly spreading in a calm stream amidst fields of corn and the august
monuments of past ages.
At the distance of a few days’ journey west from the Nile, over a
hideous flinty plain, lies the furrow already mentioned, trending to the
north, and containing the oases of Darfour, Selime, the Great and Little
Oases, and the parallel valleys of the Natron Lakes, and Bahr-Belama or
the “Dry River.” The Great Oasis, or Oasis of Thebes, is 120 miles long
and 4 or 5 broad; the Lesser Oasis, separated from it by 40 miles of
desert, is of the same form. Both are rich in verdure and cultivation,
with villages amid palm-groves and fruit-trees, mixed with the ruins of
remote antiquity, offering scenes of peaceful and soft beauty contrasted
with the surrounding gloom. The Natron Lakes are in the northern part of
the Valley of Nitrùn, 35 miles west of the Nile; the southern part is a
beautiful quiet spot, that became the retreat of Christian monks in the
middle of the second century, and at one time contained 360 convents, of
which 4 only remain; from these some very valuable manuscripts of old
date have recently been obtained.
Another line of oases runs along the latitude of Cairo, with fresh-water
lakes—consequently no less fertile than the preceding. The ruins of the
Temple of Jupiter Ammon are in one of them.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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