Dickens, Charles, 1812-1870 -- Travel -- Italy; Italy -- Description and travel; Novelists, English -- 19th century -- Biography
On Easter Sunday, as well as on the preceding Thursday, the Pope bestows
his benediction on the people, from the balcony in front of St. Peter’s.
This Easter Sunday was a day so bright and blue: so cloudless, balmy,
wonderfully bright: that all the previous bad weather vanished from the
recollection in a moment. I had seen the Thursday’s Benediction dropping
damply on some hundreds of umbrellas, but there was not a sparkle then,
in all the hundred fountains of Rome—such fountains as they are!—and on
this Sunday morning they were running diamonds. The miles of miserable
streets through which we drove (compelled to a certain course by the
Pope’s dragoons: the Roman police on such occasions) were so full of
colour, that nothing in them was capable of wearing a faded aspect. The
common people came out in their gayest dresses; the richer people in
their smartest vehicles; Cardinals rattled to the church of the Poor
Fishermen in their state carriages; shabby magnificence flaunted its
thread-bare liveries and tarnished cocked hats, in the sun; and every
coach in Rome was put in requisition for the Great Piazza of St. Peter’s.
One hundred and fifty thousand people were there at least! Yet there was
ample room. How many carriages were there, I don’t know; yet there was
room for them too, and to spare. The great steps of the church were
densely crowded. There were many of the Contadini, from Albano (who
delight in red), in that part of the square, and the mingling of bright
colours in the crowd was beautiful. Below the steps the troops were
ranged. In the magnificent proportions of the place they looked like a
bed of flowers. Sulky Romans, lively peasants from the neighbouring
country, groups of pilgrims from distant parts of Italy, sight-seeing
foreigners of all nations, made a murmur in the clear air, like so many
insects; and high above them all, plashing and bubbling, and making
rainbow colours in the light, the two delicious fountains welled and
tumbled bountifully.
A kind of bright carpet was hung over the front of the balcony; and the
sides of the great window were bedecked with crimson drapery. An awning
was stretched, too, over the top, to screen the old man from the hot rays
of the sun. As noon approached, all eyes were turned up to this window.
In due time, the chair was seen approaching to the front, with the
gigantic fans of peacock’s feathers, close behind. The doll within it
(for the balcony is very high) then rose up, and stretched out its tiny
arms, while all the male spectators in the square uncovered, and some,
but not by any means the greater part, kneeled down. The guns upon the
ramparts of the Castle of St. Angelo proclaimed, next moment, that the
benediction was given; drums beat; trumpets sounded; arms clashed; and
the great mass below, suddenly breaking into smaller heaps, and
scattering here and there in rills, was stirred like parti-coloured sand.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
Reviews
Reviews
No reviews yet
Be the first to share your thoughts on this work.
Elsewhere in the archive
Join the Discussion
Join the discussion
Sign in to leave a comment or review.
Sign InorCreate an account