Dickens, Charles, 1812-1870 -- Travel -- Italy; Italy -- Description and travel; Novelists, English -- 19th century -- Biography
Next to the wonder of going up and down the streets, and in and out of
the houses, and traversing the secret chambers of the temples of a
religion that has vanished from the earth, and finding so many fresh
traces of remote antiquity: as if the course of Time had been stopped
after this desolation, and there had been no nights and days, months,
years, and centuries, since: nothing is more impressive and terrible than
the many evidences of the searching nature of the ashes, as bespeaking
their irresistible power, and the impossibility of escaping them. In the
wine-cellars, they forced their way into the earthen vessels: displacing
the wine and choking them, to the brim, with dust. In the tombs, they
forced the ashes of the dead from the funeral urns, and rained new ruin
even into them. The mouths, and eyes, and skulls of all the skeletons,
were stuffed with this terrible hail. In Herculaneum, where the flood
was of a different and a heavier kind, it rolled in, like a sea. Imagine
a deluge of water turned to marble, at its height—and that is what is
called ‘the lava’ here.
Some workmen were digging the gloomy well on the brink of which we now
stand, looking down, when they came on some of the stone benches of the
theatre—those steps (for such they seem) at the bottom of the
excavation—and found the buried city of Herculaneum. Presently going
down, with lighted torches, we are perplexed by great walls of monstrous
thickness, rising up between the benches, shutting out the stage,
obtruding their shapeless forms in absurd places, confusing the whole
plan, and making it a disordered dream. We cannot, at first, believe, or
picture to ourselves, that THIS came rolling in, and drowned the city;
and that all that is not here, has been cut away, by the axe, like solid
stone. But this perceived and understood, the horror and oppression of
its presence are indescribable.
Many of the paintings on the walls in the roofless chambers of both
cities, or carefully removed to the museum at Naples, are as fresh and
plain, as if they had been executed yesterday. Here are subjects of
still life, as provisions, dead game, bottles, glasses, and the like;
familiar classical stories, or mythological fables, always forcibly and
plainly told; conceits of cupids, quarrelling, sporting, working at
trades; theatrical rehearsals; poets reading their productions to their
friends; inscriptions chalked upon the walls; political squibs,
advertisements, rough drawings by schoolboys; everything to people and
restore the ancient cities, in the fancy of their wondering visitor.
Furniture, too, you see, of every kind—lamps, tables, couches; vessels
for eating, drinking, and cooking; workmen’s tools, surgical instruments,
tickets for the theatre, pieces of money, personal ornaments, bunches of
keys found clenched in the grasp of skeletons, helmets of guards and
warriors; little household bells, yet musical with their old domestic
tones.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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