Dickens, Charles, 1812-1870 -- Travel -- Italy; Italy -- Description and travel; Novelists, English -- 19th century -- Biography
The least among these objects, lends its aid to swell the interest of
Vesuvius, and invest it with a perfect fascination. The looking, from
either ruined city, into the neighbouring grounds overgrown with
beautiful vines and luxuriant trees; and remembering that house upon
house, temple on temple, building after building, and street after
street, are still lying underneath the roots of all the quiet
cultivation, waiting to be turned up to the light of day; is something so
wonderful, so full of mystery, so captivating to the imagination, that
one would think it would be paramount, and yield to nothing else. To
nothing but Vesuvius; but the mountain is the genius of the scene. From
every indication of the ruin it has worked, we look, again, with an
absorbing interest to where its smoke is rising up into the sky. It is
beyond us, as we thread the ruined streets: above us, as we stand upon
the ruined walls, we follow it through every vista of broken columns, as
we wander through the empty court-yards of the houses; and through the
garlandings and interlacings of every wanton vine. Turning away to
Pæstum yonder, to see the awful structures built, the least aged of them,
hundreds of years before the birth of Christ, and standing yet, erect in
lonely majesty, upon the wild, malaria-blighted plain—we watch Vesuvius
as it disappears from the prospect, and watch for it again, on our
return, with the same thrill of interest: as the doom and destiny of all
this beautiful country, biding its terrible time.
It is very warm in the sun, on this early spring-day, when we return from
Pæstum, but very cold in the shade: insomuch, that although we may lunch,
pleasantly, at noon, in the open air, by the gate of Pompeii, the
neighbouring rivulet supplies thick ice for our wine. But, the sun is
shining brightly; there is not a cloud or speck of vapour in the whole
blue sky, looking down upon the bay of Naples; and the moon will be at
the full to-night. No matter that the snow and ice lie thick upon the
summit of Vesuvius, or that we have been on foot all day at Pompeii, or
that croakers maintain that strangers should not be on the mountain by
night, in such an unusual season. Let us take advantage of the fine
weather; make the best of our way to Resina, the little village at the
foot of the mountain; prepare ourselves, as well as we can, on so short a
notice, at the guide’s house; ascend at once, and have sunset half-way
up, moonlight at the top, and midnight to come down in!
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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