Dickens, Charles, 1812-1870 -- Travel -- Italy; Italy -- Description and travel; Novelists, English -- 19th century -- Biography
SIMOND compares the Tower to the usual pictorial representations in
children’s books of the Tower of Babel. It is a happy simile, and
conveys a better idea of the building than chapters of laboured
description. Nothing can exceed the grace and lightness of the
structure; nothing can be more remarkable than its general appearance.
In the course of the ascent to the top (which is by an easy staircase),
the inclination is not very apparent; but, at the summit, it becomes so,
and gives one the sensation of being in a ship that has heeled over,
through the action of an ebb-tide. The effect _upon the low side_, so to
speak—looking over from the gallery, and seeing the shaft recede to its
base—is very startling; and I saw a nervous traveller hold on to the
Tower involuntarily, after glancing down, as if he had some idea of
propping it up. The view within, from the ground—looking up, as through
a slanted tube—is also very curious. It certainly inclines as much as
the most sanguine tourist could desire. The natural impulse of
ninety-nine people out of a hundred, who were about to recline upon the
grass below it, to rest, and contemplate the adjacent buildings, would
probably be, not to take up their position under the leaning side; it is
so very much aslant.
The manifold beauties of the Cathedral and Baptistery need no
recapitulation from me; though in this case, as in a hundred others, I
find it difficult to separate my own delight in recalling them, from your
weariness in having them recalled. There is a picture of St. Agnes, by
Andrea del Sarto, in the former, and there are a variety of rich columns
in the latter, that tempt me strongly.
It is, I hope, no breach of my resolution not to be tempted into
elaborate descriptions, to remember the Campo Santo; where grass-grown
graves are dug in earth brought more than six hundred years ago, from the
Holy Land; and where there are, surrounding them, such cloisters, with
such playing lights and shadows falling through their delicate tracery on
the stone pavement, as surely the dullest memory could never forget. On
the walls of this solemn and lovely place, are ancient frescoes, very
much obliterated and decayed, but very curious. As usually happens in
almost any collection of paintings, of any sort, in Italy, where there
are many heads, there is, in one of them, a striking accidental likeness
of Napoleon. At one time, I used to please my fancy with the speculation
whether these old painters, at their work, had a foreboding knowledge of
the man who would one day arise to wreak such destruction upon art: whose
soldiers would make targets of great pictures, and stable their horses
among triumphs of architecture. But the same Corsican face is so
plentiful in some parts of Italy at this day, that a more commonplace
solution of the coincidence is unavoidable.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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