Furnival’s Inn, which faces its truly genuine companion opposite, Staple
Inn, is sadly modern, having been rebuilt about a century ago. Yet there
is an old fashion about it. There is a certain attractiveness in the
comparatively old and old-fashioned hotel, which fills the further
extremity, and which has an air of snugness and comfort with its trees
in tubs and cheerful _jalousies_. This arises from the perfect repose
and retirement, the shelter from the hum and noise of Holborn. Outside
there is one of the genuine old taverns, Ridler’s Hotel, where people
like Mr. Pickwick might descend. Its bow-windowed coffee room and
glass-enclosed bars will be noted, as well as the dark stairs. There are
very few of this pattern of tavern left, and where the old tavern life
is pursued. There is one at the West End, in Glasshouse Street, which
seems exactly what it must have been sixty years ago. There are the old
“boxes,” the sanded floors, the coats and hats hung up, and the kettle
on the hob.
But perhaps of all these places, “Barnard’s” is the quaintest and most
old-fashioned, from its irregular and even straggling aspect. Entering
from Holborn, by a simple doorway a little below its neighbour, Staple
Inn, we pass the snug little porter’s room, for it is no lodge, facing
which is the truly effective dining hall, though “hall” is too ambitious
a term for what is really a largish room. Yet how old, rusted and
crusted and original it seems, with its steep tiled roof, and elegant
little lantern and clock! The windows glitter as with diamond panes, and
we can see the patches of stained glass in the centre of each. A small,
business-like porch is fitted on at the side, with its little iron gate
in front, while round the tiny court are the good, sound old brick
mansions. Beyond again is a glimpse of the trees, and a garden, rather
forlorn it must be said; beside which is a strange accumulation of old
framed houses, all white and overhanging. These must be of very great
antiquity, and seem crazy enough. The life in these retreats must be
strange, with a sort of monastic tinge. Here “chambers” and rooms, etc.,
are to be had at low rates.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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