One of Dickens’s happiest scenes describes Thavies Inn, a curious little
recess at the Circus end of Holborn, “a narrow street of high houses,
like an oblong cistern to hold the fog.” Of Barnard’s Dickens seems to
have had a poor and disparaging opinion, for it is described (by Pip) as
“the dingiest collection of shabby buildings ever squeezed together in a
rank corner as a club for Tom Cats.” Staple Inn is really an
interesting, pretty retirement; there is a strange charm in its trees
and quaint old hall, which have evoked an abundance of sentiment, and
prompted some graceful sketches. Many a stranger and hurried American
enters by the effective archway, leaving the din of Holborn behind, and
changing of a sudden to unexpected peace as of the country, anxious to
trace the abode of the characters in Edwin Drood. Mr. Grewgius’s
chambers can be identified as Number 10 in the inner quadrangle, for it
is described as “presenting in black and white over its ugly portal the
mysterious inscription of P. J. T., 1747. Perhaps John Thomas, or
perhaps Joe Tyler, for a certainty P. J. T. was Pretty Jolly Too.”
Landless’s rooms are given with a graphic touch which recalls the whole
place: “The top set in the corner, where a few smoky sparrows twitter in
the smoky trees as though they had called to each other, ‘let us play at
country.’”
These old dining halls of the old inns have a certain character, with
their lantern, clock and weather-cock; an honest dial generally, with
bold gold figures that all the inn may read as it runs. Within, a
business-like, snug chamber, with a great deal of panelling and a
permanent “dinner” flavour. They really give a character or note to the
little squares in which they stand. These places are gradually
dwindling, and in a few years will be extinct. Close by Bream’s
Buildings, out of Chancery Lane, there used to stand another inn,
“Symonds’,” which it is hard to call up again, yet it disappeared only a
score of years ago and figures a good deal in the legal scenery of Bleak
House. “A little pale, wall-eyed, woe-begone inn, like a large dustbin
of two compartments and a sifter. It looks as if Symonds were a sparing
man in his day, and constructed his inn of building materials which took
kindly to the dry rot and to dirt and all things decaying and dismal,
and perpetuated Symonds’ memory with congenial sadness.”
I take from the _St. James’s Gazette_ the letter of a reminiscent who
refers very pleasantly to the poetry and people which Dickens has
associated with the “old inns.” I may add that in the account referred
to the connection of Dickens with the old inns was purposely omitted, as
the article was purely descriptive, and special books have been devoted
to “Dickens in London.”
[Illustration: BARNARD’S INN.]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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