Devonshire House, whose gloomy and rather dilapidated wall is familiar
to all who pass through Piccadilly, is “a neat, plain, well-proportioned
brick building,” a description that well suits its unpretending merits.
There is also Lansdowne House adjoining, on the north, which has a large
expanse of garden and grounds. It is one of the earliest works of the
Brothers Adam, and after their favourite pattern, a central block with a
pediment and four columns, two lower wings adhering, as it were, to it.
It is said that the reception apartments when thrown open for
festivities will hold a larger number of guests than any other London
house. It has its grand gallery, one hundred feet long, with a famous
collection of statues and pictures. Perhaps, says a certain guide book,
in an amusingly odd criticism, “there is no other collection in which
the human countenance appears with such glorious attributes of mental
expression and artistic execution.” It may be said, however, that this
at least applies admirably to the famous Reynolds portrait of Sterne,
with its very original attitude and Voltairean glance. The Duke of
Westminster’s mansion in Upper Grosvenor Street had probably originally
one of those dismal walls which excited Sir W. Chambers’s reprobation.
There is now in front a striking, open colonnade, or “columniated
screen,” as the architects call it, with two gateways, probably
suggested by that in front of old Carlton House. Through this is seen
the rather ordinary mansion itself, which somehow suggests an “hôtel” in
the faubourg. Facing the park are the gardens, which have been curtailed
by the erection of a somewhat ponderous gallery to hold the pictures.
Here is one of the most famous London collections, with ten Claudes,
eleven Rubenses, and seven Rembrandts, and over one hundred works by
masters of the first and second rank. This is the remarkable feature in
the case of these noble London mansions, viz., the curiosities of the
picture gallery or art collection, suggesting the show palaces at Rome
and Genoa. A sad specimen of failure, after abundant promise and lavish
outlay, is offered by Apsley House. This was an old brick house which
the Iron Duke purchased for nearly £10,000, and proceeded to patch and
remodel, with the most unprofitable result. There are many stories of
his dissatisfaction and disappointment at the result, and of the costly
shifts to which he and his architect, Wyatt, were led to resort to. It
was admitted that it would have been better and cheaper to have reared
an entirely new edifice. Here is a gallery and many choice works of art,
the most interesting of which is Canova’s colossal statue of
Napoleon--the first object which greets the visitor.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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