Few would imagine that in that fast-decaying city, Dublin, are to be
found some of the finest and most architectural specimens of the
nobleman’s house. It is pitiable to see these stately piles falling into
ruin, or turned to baser and, at least, unsuitable uses. There are some
half a dozen still remaining, worthy of admiration from their beautiful
proportion, noble and spacious apartments, and exquisite stucco. The
Duke of Leinster’s in Merrion Square is now occupied by the Royal Dublin
Society. Another, in William Street, belongs to a commercial firm; Lord
Alborough’s, a name long associated with Mr. Holloway and the “cure of a
bad leg of long standing,” with its private theatre and chapel forming
two wings, has become a barrack. Lord Charlemont’s, in Rutland Square,
designed by Sir W. Chambers, is a public office. The friezes, ceilings,
and other decorative works in these places are truly astonishing and
indeed incomparable, and, it is said, a number of Italian artists were
brought over specially for the work. Nothing indeed shows the decay of
taste so much as the contrast between the older patterns of chimneypiece
and the new. Not many years ago there was a sort of _bande noire_
established in Dublin, who bought up all these artistic fittings, with
the result that almost every old house in the county was ruthlessly
stripped of its adornments, which were taken away to embellish
newly-built houses in London. One private gentleman, who was concerned
in a building speculation, secured no less than forty or fifty
chimney-pieces at one swoop!
An imposing pile of building rises on one side of Piccadilly, between
the Arcade and the Albany, whose great archway leads to the most popular
of exhibitions, that of the Royal Academy. This pretentious and florid
mass is already grey and ancient-looking. Yet not many years back its
place was filled by a long, prison-like, well-grimed, and very dead
wall, literally blackened with the dirt of a century, and more. In the
centre was a huge, massive gateway, that might have opened into Newgate.
This forlorn-looking place was old Burlington House, which seemed as
though no one ever lived in, or entered it. Few supposed that within
there was a building and architectural combination of an original order,
which had often excited the admiration of connoisseurs--the work of the
_dilettante_ Earl of that name, whose skill is still to be admired in
the spacious York Assembly Rooms, for which he furnished designs. In his
alterations of his house in Piccadilly there was much pleasing grace. It
was of only two stories, which can still be noticed, but they are now
groaning under the superimposed third story laid on them by the modern
architect. They seem to protest----
Lie heavy on him, earth, for he
Laid many a heavy load on thee.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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