Two picturesque specimens--the “Old Tabard,” in the Borough, and the
“Warwick Arms,” close to Paternoster Row, would have found admirers in
Nuremberg or Rouen. The latter was a remarkable specimen from its size
and elaborateness, with its huge roof, rambling galleries and crannies,
cavernous dark shadows, and general air of mystery. The tiled roofs of
these buildings seemed to grow bent and warped from age and weakness,
and fall into those wavings and twists which form an element of the
picturesque. The wood of the balustrades grew black and grimed; it was
strange that what appeared so crazy should have held together so long.
The “Tabard,” though it did not date from Chaucer’s day, as many
innocently fancied, was a genuine structure of the seventeenth century.
The wonder, in truth, is that any of these fragile structures should
still be in existence. Perhaps the most remarkable and most interesting
of the old inn-yards was that of the “Four Swans,” which stood till some
eight or ten years ago in Bishopsgate Street. This was considered the
most perfect and best preserved of all, having more galleries, and
having been the scene of a stirring adventure during the Roundhead and
Cavalier wars. Its neighbour, the “Green Dragon,” was levelled about the
same time. What a pleasing twang, it may be said, is there about the
titles of these hostelries, which contrast with the more prosaic
designations of latter-day life!
Of these old inns, with their yards and galleries, there are but two or
three in which the business of entertainment is still carried on. There
is the old “Bell Inn,” a grimed, caked, red-brick, ancient building,
with its sign of the Bell, a china shop in front, and an archway
according to the old pattern. Entering, there is the true old-world
flavour--the galleries, the tumble-down stairs fashioned of
wood-panelling with projecting eaves, the files of bells outside, the
kitchen to the left as in a foreign hotel, strange little rickety
stairsteps as from the cabin of a ship, with also the occasional
appearance of a figure in one of the galleries. The inn life here, from
these arrangements, is certain to correspond--every one is, as it were,
in evidence. You can hardly dream of the noisy Holborn just outside. It
is very different in the regular hostelries, where everything is at the
top of the house or at the bottom, not, as here, all round about it.
London has many of these quaint surprises to those who wish to see them.
Here is to be seen the low arch, under which the coaches and waggons
drove into the inn-yard, with its galleries running round, from which
chambermaids looked down or called to those below. Even now it seems a
strange order of things and a quaint arrangement, and you wonder how
business is carried on at such places.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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