It is, however, when we cross London Bridge and enter the Borough that
we come to the region of inn-yards. Here began the road to Canterbury,
and here, in the old times, the waggons and coaches arrived with their
goods and passengers; and we are at once struck with the innumerable
yards and small inclosures into which these vehicles used to drive.
There were a large number of these inns, most of which remain in some
shape, surviving at least as public-houses. There were the old “King’s
Head,” the old “White Hart,” the new “White Hart,” the “Old George,” the
“Queen’s Head,” the “Nag’s Head,” and the “Spur.” Few only of the old
pattern remain, and their days, or hours in one case, are certainly
numbered. The first is the old “King’s Head,” of which a fragment--some
thirty or forty yards long--still stands all ruinous and forlorn, with
its two ancient galleries or balustrades in a sadly tottering state, its
anatomy exposed in a heartless fashion at each end. One could be
sentimental and mournful over it. It is surrounded by new spick and span
brickwork, and a new “King’s Head” insolently confronts it and seems to
flourish.
[Illustration: THE WHITE HART.]
“In the Borough,” says the author of “Pickwick,” “there still remain
some half-a-dozen old inns which have preserved their external features
unchanged. Great, rambling, queer old places they are, with galleries
and passages and staircases, wide enough and antiquated enough to
furnish materials for a hundred ghost stories. It was in the yard of one
of these inns--of no less celebrated a one than the ‘White Hart,’ that a
man was employed in brushing the dirt off a pair of boots:” the
introduction as the world knows, of Mr. Pickwick to the immortal Samuel
Weller. The yard is then described: “It presented none of that bustle
and activity which are the usual characteristics of a large coach inn.
Three or four lumbering waggons, each with a pile of goods beneath its
ample canopy about the height of a second-floor window of an ordinary
house, were stowed away beneath a lofting which extended over one end of
the yard; and another, which was to commence its journey in the morning,
was drawn out into an open space. A double tier of bedroom galleries
with old clumsy balustrades ran round two sides of the straggling area,
and a double row of bells to correspond, sheltered from the weather by a
little sloping roof, hung over the door leading to the bar and
coffee-room. Two or three gigs or chaise-carts were wheeled up under
different little sheds and pent-houses.”
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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