The old London taverns and chop houses are disappearing year by year,
but there are a few quaint survivals which are interesting. Take it that
on some winter’s evening, we have passed through old Holywell Street,
where the gas is flaring wildly over the doors, and emerge at the foot
of the picturesque St. Clement Danes’ tower, in whose belfry windows are
red lights, while its bells are clanging away noisily, worked by the
strong arms of “the College of Bell Ringers.” We hurry on, passing
through the old Bar, which once seemed like entering a fortified town,
and only wanted a drawbridge; then see to the left, over a little low
porch, the illuminated beacon of “The Cock,” cheerfully inviting
entrance. The long bent passage, with the swing-door at the end, had an
air of ineffable comfort--there was a glimpse of the cozy bar beyond. To
the right hand, as the swing-door opened and shut, you saw the jovial
red curtains within, the blackened mahogany boxes, the hats hung up, and
the sanded floor. It seemed like a whiff of the “Old Maypole.” You
understood at once the significance of Dickens’s old inns, which he
seemed to revel in. How snug that corner seat near the fire--just
holding two--with the stout table in front--the kettle singing close to
you--from below came the sound of cheerful hissing, as the tender chops
or “dinner steak” was being prepared “to follow” or not, as it might
be--to be succeeded again by the peculiar “rare-bit,” the unapproachable
stout, fine port, and finer whiskey!
It was a curious sensation to find refuge here after a weary day, and
look round on the characteristic figures, mostly solitary, dried up, old
lawyers, who have spent their day in company with deeds and papers. They
would have their tumblers of old Scotch--more as a companion for their
thoughts--and you could see their faces wandering placidly to the fire
as if tracing some of their favourite quiddities and quillets there.
Here, too, was to be found the adventurer come to seek his fortune in
the great town, brooding over the buffets already met with, planning how
to fend off others, yet finding a soothing comfort in the placid
retirement of the old hostel.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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