“I may here mention,” wrote an old City solicitor named Jay, “that the
‘Cock Tavern’ in Fleet Street has been a noted resort of lawyers for
more than two centuries. When I first went there, no chops or steaks
were cooked, but gentlemen and tradesmen went there in the afternoon to
smoke their pipes (cigars being then very little used). The landlord at
that time held a high position in Whitbread’s brewery. It was at this
time kept open during the night, and until the early hours of morning
were far advanced it was often a difficult matter to find an unoccupied
seat. The gentlemen who frequented it were members of the Temple and
other Inns of Court, and used their own silver tankards bearing their
crests, which were exposed to view against the wall of the bar or
coffee-room; and I have still many pleasant reminiscences of oyster and
other suppers furnished at this house; a man from a neighbouring
fishmonger’s being specially retained to open oysters for the numerous
customers, who with sharp appetites kept him fully employed.”
To many persons who have never entered a tavern in their lives, “The
Cock” had a certain charm of association, mainly owing to its having
been celebrated in verse by the Poet Laureate. Perhaps few, again, are
familiar with all he has said or sung upon the subject, contenting
themselves with the oft-quoted lines to the “plump head waiter at ‘The
Cock,’” which gave that personage an immortality. The lines on “Will
Waterproof’s” visit have an extraordinary charm of pensive retrospect
and solitary meditation, and convey an idea of the tone of the old
place, and of the fancies it is likely to engender in some solitary and
perhaps depressed guest. A series of pictures and moods is unfolded in
this charming poem, a sort of dreamy rumination and pleasant sadness;
visions float upwards in the curling fumes of the smoker’s “long clay.”
But only a great poet could extract a refined quintessence from the
mixed vapours of chops and steaks.
WILL WATERPROOF’S LYRICAL MONOLOGUE.
MADE AT “THE COCK.”
O, plump head waiter at “The Cock,”
To which I most resort,
How goes the time? ’Tis five o’clock.
Go fetch a pint of port:
But let it not be such as that
You set before chance comers,
But such whose father-grape grew fat
On Lusitanian summers.
* * * * *
And hence this halo lives about
The waiter’s hands that reach
To each his perfect pint of stout,
His proper chop to each.
He looks not like the common breed
That with the napkin dally;
I think he came like Ganymede,
From some delightful valley.
* * * * *
Ah, let the rusty theme alone!
We know not what we know.
But for my pleasant hour, ’tis gone,
’Tis gone, and let it go.
’Tis gone: a thousand such have slipt
Away from my embraces,
And fallen into the dusty crypt
Of darken’d forms and faces.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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