deserted, as if it were Plague-time. The lamps flicker feebly, and we
might without stretch of imagination conceive it was now the middle of
the night. Heavy shadows hang over the corners. The church towers loom
out at the corners of the ascending alleys; but the doors are closed and
their bells are silent. We hear the sound of foot-falls echoing loudly
as some one draws near--a solitary policeman, who continues his patrol
sadly. We are separated by but a row of houses from the great river, but
that highway is really silent. The steamers are at rest. The lamp-light
here and there flashes feebly on the names of the great dealers and
middle-men, set up over their mean and tottering shops, where thousands
of pounds are “turned over” in a day. Billingsgate is fast closed, not
an oath nor a word of its famous vocabulary is in the air. This air of
solitude and desertion is one of the most extraordinary sensations
associated with the City, and the impression is worth experiencing. We
ascend by one of the alleys, and come once more into something like life
and motion and see the clattering cabs and omnibuses hurrying by.
Again, what can be better than the view as you walk towards Cripplegate,
through winding streets, and begin to see the old gaunt, quaint,
weather-beaten tower of St. Giles’s Church rising above the houses?
There is nothing in London better than this solemn tower, formed of old
stones half the way up, the other half of grimed, caked brick, the whole
surmounted by an odd and quaint belfry. We might think we were in some
Belgian town. Then, the old churchyard behind, with the path winding
round by a short cut to other streets; the old wooden houses that adjoin
it, overhanging the street, and that seem “caked” to it; and, finally,
the strange doorway of the church, decorated with its significant
supporters--a skull on one side and an hour-glass on the other--wrought
in the spirited fashion of Cibber.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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