In the City there are many strange places like this, with narrow winding
streets and antique names. Of a bright, sunshiny day, for instance,
there is one portion which is picturesque, animated to a degree, and
worthy of a painter. Standing in the street and looking down towards the
Monument and the point where King William and other streets converge
towards London Bridge, the buildings and warehouses and churches all
rise and cross each other at various angles, catching the light in
different ways. There is the statue, such as it is; the elegant steeple
of the church in Thames Street; the glimpse of the bridge and the river;
the enormous busy traffic; and the effective Monument itself. Then going
on, we look down on the picturesque Thames Street, passing under the
arch, and which is as it might have looked two centuries ago. Here is
the picturesqueness of trade. The London merchants and their men thus
carried on business centuries ago. Then the river itself, “noble”
certainly--with the vessels and steamers crowded in rows at the wharf
sides, and the huge landing warehouses--seen from the middle of the
bridge, is a wonderful sight to behold.
Another picturesque surprise awaits us on turning out of Cannon Street
into a sort of bye-lane or slope that leads down towards the river.
This
[Illustration: ST. GILES’S, CRIPPLEGATE.]
little, concealed quarter is charmingly irregular, an odd miscellany
compounded of straggling lanes and inclosures, churches, churchyards,
halls, old houses, and lofty mansions of fine old brickwork. One has
been partially rebuilt and furnished with additions and excrescences
which have not improved it. Turn to the left, along a road cut through
the old burying ground, and you are led into a curious little
old-fashioned, rambling sort of square--half business, half residential.
A “vestry hall” gives on the disused burying-ground, as also some mouldy
business houses, while here begins Laurence Pountney Hill, which takes
us out into the main street. I fancy it is at this point there is to be
seen the finest old brick house in London, taking it all in all. This is
a rather sweeping statement, but it can be justified. Down this
quaintly-named Laurence Pountney Hill, stand two grimed, solid old
houses--handsome, truly, in their design and decoration. We look first
at the elaborate, richly-carved, and wrought doorways, so original and
florid in design; and indeed lift our eyes in admiration to the lofty
and stately façade of this fine and ripe piece of antique brick,
well-toned, full of dark shadows, and marvellously effective. The
cornice is like nothing that is to be seen in London, the supports being
grouped three together, thus giving a fine effect. There has been some
alteration in the house, and of odd taste, and an addition has been
built out right in front. But the two doorways, with their shell-shaped
crests and lace-like carvings, are truly wonderful. The general effect
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