On Dowgate Hill also, we find another of these quaint Halls. A rather
elegant, modern, pierced gate of ironwork closes up an archway, and,
looking through, we see an inviting Court within. Entering through the
arch, which passes under a deep mass of houses, we find ourselves in a
charming little courtyard with quite an Italian air, set round with an
arcade supporting a rubicund brick building with elegant windows and
airy carvings; some modern additions and renovations have been combined,
with excellent taste. There is mural painting too. Such is Dyers’
Hall--a pleasing, piquant little place.
While lamenting the loss of the old patterns of Hall, pulled down, or
destroyed by fire, we must admire the sumptuous, and even magnificent,
buildings which have taken their place; such as the massive, floridly
decorated façade of the Drapers’ Hall in Throgmorton Street. This
street, as it bends or winds, has a majestic, almost Genoese, air; its
great gloomy buildings rise solemnly on each side of the narrow street,
foreign in tone; towards the close of the business day, the street
becomes filled with crowds of animated noisy figures pouring out of the
Stock Exchange, and debating their bargains in the open air. This
scene--the narrow street, the stately shadowy buildings frowning down on
the figures--suggests one of the retired picturesque streets in Ghent,
or even in some Italian city. The busy, substantial negotiators have a
burgher-like air, and the whole is utterly different from anything to be
seen in the trivial West End. The Drapers’ Hall is a vast and ponderous
mass, already blackened with age, though young in years, but very
striking in character, with its enormous and richly florid cornice, bold
windows, and heavily arched portals. As we look through the iron rails,
we can see a retired court, curious contrast to the noisy scene without.
The old “Drapers’ Gardens” used to stretch down the whole street that
turns out of Throgmorton Street, and were admired for their tranquil air
of old fashion. Gradually they have been encroached upon; warehouses
have been reared, and a fragment only now remains. Even this remnant,
however, is welcome, and the promenade down the alley leaves an
impression as of something old-fashioned and rural. Such are a few of
these very striking “survivals.”
CHAPTER XXI.
ALLHALLOWS, ST. OLAVE’S, ELY CHAPEL, ETC.
The old City Churches offer an inexhaustible field for a London
explorer. There is nothing more touching than the air of utter
abandonment of some of these forlorn structures, appropriately situated
in some fast-decaying quarter. They seem closed for ever; and with many
are associated strange histories.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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