If we walk on to Enfield and Edmonton, we shall be yet more gratified.
Enfield is really remarkable for the variety of its mansions. As we walk
along the pretty high road, oddly called Baker Street, we come upon many
mansions in large expanses of grounds, and enclosed within walls, but
their fine iron gates allow a satisfactory view. “Lovers of Queen Anne
architecture,” says a good authority, “will do well to study here.” Some
of these houses are perfect pictures--such as artists revel in and
portray for the Exhibitions. They are perfect surprises from their
old-world air, everything being in harmony. One is known as Enfield
Court, which contains “quaint specimens of brickwork and a fine terraced
garden, with clipped yews.” There is an old Hall for the admirers of
Inigo Jones.
Indeed, the various places of this kind which are within easy reach of
London offer extraordinary and unsuspected entertainment.
But of all these suburban places, perhaps the hackneyed Hampstead and
Highgate offer an unfailing attraction. Nothing is more remarkable than
the change from the dull heavy London atmosphere below to the keen,
inspiring, vigorous air on these northern heights, which is palpable and
felt at once as we ascend. In spite of the “demolitions” that meet us as
we climb Hampstead High Street, the place still seems to retain its
old-fashioned, quaintly-pleasing features; its alleys and lanes straggle
and wind and turn with delightfully-picturesque effect; a row of
venerable trees will line a raised path beside an old wall, while houses
and short terraces of the true Hampstead pattern, odd, square, and
cheerful, abound. Retired corners, shady lanes, small gardens enclosed
within ancient walls, old lanterns, these are everywhere. No wonder
artists covet these old tenements, and, it is said, give fancy prices
for them. Winter and summer bring an equal, though varied, charm to the
place. In winter there is a pleasant air of shelter and retreat; in
summer umbrageous shade. Nothing can be more artfully arranged with a
view to picturesque effect than the mixture of houses and general
rusticity; it is country and town blended in the most pleasing fashion.
The old gnarled trees rise on high paths overhanging the road, and over
the walls behind peep
[Illustration: CHURCH ROW, HAMPSTEAD.]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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