the cheerful red dormer windows of some quaint Georgian mansion--“The
Grove,” or Grove House. As we wander through the place the impression is
always the same, a pleasing, old-fashioned tranquillity, the alleys
winding irregularly, little shaded corners and open places. And then the
memory of Clarissa--most pathetic of heroines, and her painful, sad
story--too painful almost to read. It used to be said that Frenchmen
were found here asking to be shown “The Flask Inn,” where the persecuted
maid took refuge. There is, or used to be, a Flask Inn in Flask Walk,
and there is another ancient “Flask,” most picturesque, at Highgate. But
the original, genuine Inn might escape the curious. It will be found on
the breezy summit of the Heath, at the corner of Heath Street, and
facing the reservoir. It is now a private mansion standing in a spacious
garden.
On the other side of Hampstead there is the attractive Church Row, a
unique range of “Queen Anne” houses, through whose windows can be seen
glimpses of waving trees and shrubs in the gardens behind. The bottom of
the little street is closed by the church, with its quaint, copper
spire--not older than the last century, but old enough to harmonize
fairly. Round it spreads away its rural churchyard, with paths across
it.
One of the most delightful walks, familiar enough to Londoners, is that
from the breezy summit of the Heath round to Highgate. Here stands the
old inn, Jack Straw’s Castle, to which Dickens and his trusty friend
Forster used to ride out on some “shoemakers’ holiday,” halting to
regale themselves on a chop after their labour of the week. At this old
hostelry we have stayed for a week or so, in snug quarters. There was a
certain piquancy and originality in the situation; it was “so near and
yet so far” from town. The ceaseless halting at the door of the
innumerable travellers’ vehicles was curious to note. No one seemed to
have power to resist the attraction. The fine old, solid mansion beside
it, with its garden, seemed enviable.
A quarter of a mile further on we come to that truly Pickwickian inn,
“The Spaniards,” where Mrs. Bardell was arrested: a charmingly
old-fashioned, rural house, with its tea gardens. We never pass it
without calling up the scene--the hackney coach waiting at the gate,
Mrs. B. and her friends at one of the little tables, and Mr. Jackson
entering with his assistant. In catching this local flavour the novelist
was unrivalled. It is difficult to describe the particular charm of a
walk through a country district, but this to Highgate is unrivalled.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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