Picturesque Spain: Architecture, landscape, life of the people.Hielscher, Kurt
History
Picturesque Spain: Architecture, landscape, life of the people.
Hielscher, Kurt
Spain -- Description and travel
When he heard that I was a German he was quite surprised. He willingly
agreed to accompany me to the next village, and was quite curious to
hear something about my country. The news of the war had penetrated to
this remote part of the world. It was charming to listen to the
questions of this child of nature. He knew nothing of the three Rs; had
never seen a railway, had never left the neighbourhood of his village.
We soon met another shepherd on the mountain-side who was just as
pleased and interested as the other. And I must say, that wherever I was
in Spain, all classes of the population were friendly towards Germans.
It was not long before we encountered other wayfarers who joined us, for
Sunday enticed them into the village. My entrance was therefore almost a
triumphal procession. We entered the inn, ordered some wine, and sat
down to a well-earned rest. When I wanted to pay the landlord, he
refused, telling me that Pepa had settled the bill. However, this
wouldn’t do. And at last he agreed to my paying on condition that the
next time I returned I should be his guest. They all shook hands with me
most-heartily and I continued joyfully on my way.
At last I stood in front of the monastery gates. They were opened, and
the white haired abbot rode out on a little donkey, holding a green
parasol over his head. I saluted the venerable Father and enquired of
him whether I could stay at the monastery for the night. “No", he
replied, “impossible."--Discomfitted I exclaimed: “But where am I to go
to-day? I have travelled fifty kilometres and have come from
Navalmoral."--“What, on foot? Impossible!" “Yes, but I have. I am a
German and want to see the spot which the emperor Charles V. exchanged
for all the crowns in the world, and where he closed his eyes."--“You
are a German? Of course you can’t continue your journey."
I was most kindly and touchingly taken care of.
I was shown the monastery which had once been destroyed by the French.
Decay and mould have continued the work of destruction. But nature’s
eternal youth triumphs victoriously amongst the ruins and beautifies the
decay of age. And yet this is a place to think about the everlastingness
of all things, of the end of all terrestrial happiness.--Once that great
monarch who had fled from the turmoil of the world had paced these
halls.
At supper, I, the infidel sat at the monks’ board and was treated like a
brother.
The next morning I was awakened long hours before sunrise. A lay brother
lit me with a lantern through the dark and ancient park. The monastery
gate swung on its hinges, the latch fell heavily, and I was again out in
the world all silvery with the moonlight. For a moment I stood
entranced.--I heard the mass bell calling the monks to prayers. And the
gates of Paradise were closed behind me.
* * * * *
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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