Produced by Steve Mattern [Illustration: North Street, Plymouth] PILGRIM TRAILS A PLYMOUTH-TO-PROVINCETOWN SKETCHBOOK BY FRANCES LESTER WARNER With Drawings By E. SCOTT WHITE The ATLANTIC MONTHLY PRESS BOSTON Copyright, 1921, by The Atlantic Monthly Press CONTENTS CHAPTER I Plymouth Towne II Alden and Standish III Winslow's "Great Lot" IV The Cape ILLUSTRATIONS North Street, Plymouth Plymouth Harbor Site of First House, Leyden Street "Nautical House" Old Plymouth Doorway Burial Hill John Alden's House, Duxbury (1653) The Myles Standish Monument The Standish House, Duxbury (1666) The Winslow House, Marshfield (1699) "The Ark" Old Fish Wharf, Cape Cod The Pilgrim Monument, Provincetown CHAPTER I PLYMOUTH TOWNE "There!" said the artist, "isn't that a nautical-looking house?" When the artist says that a house is nautical, he means that it looks as if it had been built by seafaring men; not by wealthy ship-owners, but by generations of skippers and men before the mast. When you build a nautical house, you should begin more than a hundred years ago with a small cottage on the side-hill over the harbor, and add on a snug cabin now and then, tucking in a shipshape companionway here and there, and running a new section out along the slope. If you like to indulge your taste in roofs, you make a different kind for every addition. One section may be gable, another lean-to, and the one-story addition may run out as long as you please, shaped on top something like the roof of a barge. Simply fit your building to the ups and downs of the land and the ways of the wind. A bit of faded blue paint somewhere on the blinds or near the door, and all your roofing weathered by many hundred harbor gales, and your house is nautical. There are not as many of these in Plymouth as in Gloucester, but there are a few. In fact, at Plymouth you may find almost any kind of building you look for, from Mansard roofs and bungalows, to the lobster-houses down by Eel River, the shooting-boxes out on the sand-spit, and the dark old structures beside Town Brook and around the region once known as Clamshell Alley. We had left the car at the garage, and had walked along the upper streets over the hill. The artist was going sketching, his brother Alexander was meeting a business appointment, and Barbara and I had come to see Plymouth. "I'm going in among those places on the other side of Town Brook," said the artist. "The only way to find something good is to go everywhere you're not supposed to." "But you and Barbara," said Alexander, as he prepared to escort us out to the main street, "might as well go where you're supposed to." He paused for a moment to let his words sink in. "The best way," said Alexander, "is to follow your guide-book." "The best way," said the artist over his shoulder, "is to explore."