Pilgrim Trails: A Plymouth-to-Provincetown SketchbookWarner, Frances Lester
History
Pilgrim Trails: A Plymouth-to-Provincetown Sketchbook
Warner, Frances Lester
Massachusetts -- Description and travel
[Illustration: The Winslow House, Marshfield, (1699)]
The Winslow mansion, with its great trees and its own broad hearths, has
not grown bleak in its old age, or even austere. There is an Indian word
preserved for us by Governor Winslow's friend, Roger Williams, that
might serve as a motto for this house. "_Nickquenum_" says Roger
Williams, "_I am going home_, is a solemn word with them; and no man
will offer any hinderance to him, who after some absence is going to
visit his family, and useth this word Nickquenum." As we go up the
flagstone pathway and lift the Marshfield knocker, we can easily imagine
that generations of famous Winslows, returning to their ancestral
estate, must have approached this house somewhat in the spirit of that
word used by their grandfather's friends the Indians: "Nickquenum,
Winsnow!" which is to say, "O Winslow--I am going home."
CHAPTER IV
THE CAPE
If you come from the Firelands in the Middle West, if you discover Cape
Cod, if you fall in love with a little empty ninety-five-year-old house
there and buy it, with its three acres of pines and locust trees and
arbutus and rose bushes--then you long to go to see it after the deed is
filed. It may be the dead of winter, but you want to go. You do not want
to be merely a "summer person." The sea is rocking with a February gale,
and the rain drives over the dunes in slanting gusts. But you go
cruising down the Cape in the evening train, disembark two or three
stations short of Provincetown, make your way up your lane, unlock your
door, light a fire in your stove, set a lamp in your window, and feel
that the house has been waiting there all its ninety-five years, for
you.
If you are generous with your share of the world, you invite your
friends.
In just this way, our friend from the West filed her deed, built her
fire with driftwood and pine cones, set her teakettle on the stove, and
sent for Barbara and me to come.
We had known Cape Cod in summer, with its blueberries and its
sailing-craft, its wharves and artist-colonies and ocean breezes. But we
had never seen it in winter, with snow on the sand-dunes and the wind
flying over with sleet and rain.
An old house with seafaring memories knows how to behave in a storm. At
high tide, our house sits up not so very far above the level of the sea.
A little Ark on a little Ararat, it was built nearly a century ago by
Jonah Atkins for Noah Smith; Noah and Jonah--surely names of men
equipped to go a voyage. The lumber for the house had to be brought by
ship from Maine, thrown overboard off shore, rafted up to the land in
time of high-course tide, spread out on the hill to dry, and then set
solidly together, and pegged. Jonah Atkins made his wooden pegs to stay.
The gale while we were there blew great ships far out of their course at
sea, but there was not a shiver in the timbers of our roof.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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