[45] A German writer informs us that the country people stay in these baths from Saturday night till Monday morning. “Tous les Samedis on voit accourir à Pfeffers une multitude de gens des campagne voisines, et ils restent dans le bains jusqu’au Lundi matin pour provoquer la sueur.” [46] Dr. Engel, of Vienna. [47] For further particulars, see the Third Edition of my “ECONOMY OF HEALTH,” or Stream of Human Life, &c. [48] Unfortunately I find that gambling _is_ permitted in Aix by the Prussian government to all non-residents! [49] In the interval between 1834 and 1840, when I last visited this place, Ems has been completely metamorphosed. I could scarcely recognize it, so much has it been embellished and improved. It is now one of the prettiest spas in Germany. A line of handsome buildings, a mile in length, with a magnificent Cursaal in the centre, stretches along the Lahn, while new edifices are fast rising on the other side of the river. Beautiful promenades are formed all along this line, between the houses and the Lahn, while two bands of music play several hours in the day. The view from the highest point of the Morshutte, is very picturesque. [50] A short time ago Ems had nearly shaken the foundation of Carlsbad. On cutting down, with incredible labour, through a bed of schistus and other rock, on the opposite side of the Lahn, a spring boiled up with a force equal to that of the Sprudel, and at a temperature of 168° of Fahrenheit! The inundation, by infiltration, from the Lahn, overpowered the efforts of the workmen, and the enterprize was abandoned. Various fragments of masonry and wood were found in this place, rendering it probable that, at some remote period—perhaps in the time of the Romans, there was a thermal fountain in this place. The water is still seen boiling up from the bed of the river at this place, and, on immersing my thermometer in the water of the Lahn there, the mercury stood at 104°. [51] Ems, Les Eaux Thermales. Par M. Doring, 1839. [52] Dr. Doring affirms that bathing in the Ems waters is quite as salutary in Winter as in Summer. [53] By far the pleasantest way to Kissengen is the cross-road, leaving Wurtzburg far to the right. It will occupy about two and a half days’ posting from Frankfort, through a highly picturesque and beautiful country. Aschaffenburgh is the first night’s resting-place. The second days’ journey leads through a portion of the ancient Hercynian forest, and presents very fine scenery. [54] Balling, p. 33. [55] Ibidem. [56] Balling, p. 38-9.