The uneducated or half-educated traveller, who surveys the uncultivated
and malarious plains around the city of the Popes, at once discovers, in
this desolation which prevails, an argument against priestly rule. With a
little more information, however, he would see the ruins and the vestiges
of a mighty empire, the works of which, like its conquests, were the
wonder of the world. How such works came to be so successfully executed is
easily understood, when it is remembered that heathen Rome commanded the
wealth, the intellect, and the strong arms of many subject nations. The
Popes, on the other hand, though they often tried, as did Pius IX. among
the rest, to cultivate the Campagna and drain the Pontine Marshes, had so
little means at their disposal, that they could never accomplish anything
important. Among other difficulties that the Roman Pontiffs had to contend
with, was that of obtaining an outlet towards the sea, whilst ancient Rome
commanded all the seas and lands of the known world. Surely it does not
require a Solomon to understand that without access to the Mediterranean,
it is physically impossible to drain and cultivate such low-lying lands as
the Pontine Marshes.
At Perugia the Holy Father received the kindly visit of the Archduke
Charles, who came, on the part of his father Leopold, to compliment the
Sovereign Pontiff. Archduke Maximilian, of Austria, who, at the time,
little thought of a Mexican Empire, came to salute the Pope at Pesaro.
Neither he nor Pius IX. had been, as yet, betrayed and abandoned by
Napoleon III. The Grand Duke of Tuscany and all his family, together with
the Dukes of Parma and Modena, came to pay their homage at Bologna. The
Holy Father accepted their pressing invitation to visit Tuscany and
Modena, the sovereigns showing publicly, in presence of their people, such
reverence and devotedness as recalled the faith and loyalty of the Middle
Ages. The Pope himself bears witness to the truly noble and chivalrous
conduct of these provinces. “He introduced us himself into Florence,” says
Pius IX., in speaking of the Grand Duke Leopold, “walking by our side, and
accompanied us to every Tuscan city which we visited. All the archbishops
and bishops of his States, all the clergy, the corporate bodies, the
magistrates and the nobles showed their delight by testifying their
devotion to us in a thousand ways. Not only at Florence, but wherever we
went in Tuscany, the people from town and country, far and near, came
forth to greet us, acclaiming the Chief Pontiff of the church with such
ardent affection, showing such an intense desire to see him, to do him
reverence, to receive his benediction, that our fatherly heart was moved
to its inmost depths.” On the Holy Father’s return to Rome there was high
jubilee among all classes of the people a fact which the traducers of Pius
IX. would do well to note, as it proves beyond a doubt how idle and
ill-founded was all their clamor, to the effect that in the holy city his
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