Great Britain -- History; Theater -- Great Britain -- History; Theater -- Moral and ethical aspects; Theater -- Religious aspects
Most of their canons of taste have become those of all England. High
Churchmen, who still call them Roundheads and Cropped-ears, go about
rounder-headed and closer cropt than they ever went. They held it more
rational to cut the hair to a comfortable length than to wear effeminate
curls down the back. We cut ours much shorter than they ever did. They
held (with the Spaniards, then the finest gentlemen in the world) that
sad, _i.e._ dark colours, above all black, were the fittest for all
stately and earnest gentlemen. We all, from the Tractarian to the
Anythingarian, are exactly of the same opinion. They held that lace,
perfumes, and jewellery on a man were marks of unmanly foppishness and
vanity. So hold the finest gentlemen in England now. They thought it
equally absurd and sinful for a man to carry his income on his back, and
bedizen himself out in reds, blues, and greens, ribbons, knots, slashes,
and treble quadruple dædalian ruffs, built up on iron and timber, which
have more arches in them for pride than London Bridge for use. We, if we
met such a ruffed and ruffled worthy as used to swagger by dozens up and
down Paul’s Walk, not knowing how to get a dinner, much less to pay his
tailor, should look on him as firstly a fool, and secondly a swindler:
while if we met an old Puritan, we should consider him a man gracefully
and picturesquely drest, but withal in the most perfect sobriety of good
taste; and when we discovered (as we probably should), over and above,
that the harlequin cavalier had a box of salve and a pair of dice in one
pocket, a pack of cards and a few pawnbroker’s duplicates in the other;
that his thoughts were altogether of citizens’ wives and their too easy
virtue; and that he could not open his mouth without a dozen oaths: then
we should consider the Puritan (even though he did quote Scripture
somewhat through his nose) as the gentleman; and the courtier as a most
offensive specimen of the ‘snob triumphant,’ glorying in his shame. The
picture is not ours, nor even the Puritan’s. It is Bishop Hall’s, Bishop
Earle’s, it is Beaumont’s, Fletcher’s, Jonson’s, Shakspeare’s,—the
picture which every dramatist, as well as satirist, has drawn of the
‘gallant’ of the seventeenth century. No one can read those writers
honestly without seeing that the Puritan, and not the Cavalier conception
of what a British gentleman should be, is the one accepted by the whole
nation at this day.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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