Pogonologia; Or, A Philosophical and Historical Essay on BeardsDulaure, J.-A. (Jacques-Antoine)
Philosophy
Pogonologia; Or, A Philosophical and Historical Essay on Beards
Dulaure, J.-A. (Jacques-Antoine)
Beards
Whiskers, in France, have been the object of the most refined luxury. In
Lewis XIII.’s reign, they attained the highest degree of favour, at the
expense of the expiring beards. In those days of gallantry, not yet
empoisoned by wit, they became the favourite occupation of lovers, A
fine black whisker, elegantly turned up, was a very powerful mark of
dignity with the fair-sex. The women of those ancient times, less taken
up with genius than the concerns of the heart, and more learned in
lovers than books, made their glory consist in triumphing over a
warrior, or seeing a haughty, swaggering lover humbly at their feet:
proud of such a conquest, and jealous to preserve it, these ladies had a
sufficient value for their characters to continue faithful. And if a
favour was the reward of love, it was often of merit: in this case, a
woman had respect enough for a man to be sincere, and a man had respect
enough for his mistress to be discreet; but now-a-days ... what men!
The following relation proves how much the French valued their whiskers
in the time of Lewis XIII. Count Bouteville, the most celebrated
duellist of his time, who was condemned to be beheaded, seeing the
executioner, who had already cut off his hair, going to take off his
whiskers, could not conceal the anguish of mind which this dishonour
gave him, and put his hands on these dear ornaments, as if to preserve
them from the outrage with which they were menaced. The bishop of
Mantes, who attended him in these last moments, seeing this new
uneasiness, said to him: _My son, you must give over all worldly
thoughts; what! do you still think of this world?_
Whiskers were still in fashion in the beginning of Lewis XIV.’s reign.
This king and all the great men of his reign took a pride in wearing
them. They were the ornament of Turenne, Condé, Colbert, Corneille,
Moliere, &c. It was then no uncommon thing for a favourite lover to have
his whiskers turned up, combed, and pomatumed by his mistress; and, for
this purpose, a man of fashion took care to be always provided with
every little necessary article, especially whisker-wax. It was highly
flattering to a lady, to have it in her power to praise the beauty of
her lover’s whiskers, which, far from being disgusting, gave his person
an air of vivacity; several even thought it an incitement to love. It
seems the levity of the French made them undergo several changes both in
form and name: there were _Spanish_, _Turkish_, _guard-dagger_, &c.
whiskers; in short, _royal_ ones, which were the last worn: their
smallness proclaimed their approaching fall. Since that period, whiskers
have been worn only at the theatres and by some of our troops; besides,
they are less liked in France than among the other nations, where it is
very common to see all the officers with them.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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