Pogonologia; Or, A Philosophical and Historical Essay on BeardsDulaure, J.-A. (Jacques-Antoine)
Philosophy
Pogonologia; Or, A Philosophical and Historical Essay on Beards
Dulaure, J.-A. (Jacques-Antoine)
Beards
It is most likely the fear of being sunburnt, or else that refined
coquetry which conceals from public view what it means to raise a desire
for, determined the ladies to cover their faces with a mask of black
velvet. No lady was seen abroad without her mask. Tradition says nothing
of the cause of this fashion; but there is no doubt but ugliness and
decrepitness invented another sort of mask, which our old tabbies still
continue the use of: this is a plaster of white lead and vermillion,
laid on so thick, that it represents much better the ruddy countenance
of a drunken sot, than the fine lively complexion of a beautiful damsel.
In the reign of Francis II. a tunbellied Person of high rank turned the
heads of all the French. Every body was mad to have, not only a great
belly, but likewise a very large false rump. At present, our ladies have
not revived the fashion of great bellies; on the contrary, it has been
remarked that they have a great dislike to them: but one of them, who
had a bad shape, appearing with an enormous rump and hips, all the rest
would have false ones; and all the well made women concealed their
shape, as the others did their defects.
Footnote 2:
Henry IV. of France was the contemporary of Queen Elizabeth. T.
Geffrey Plantagenet, count of Anjou, one of the most accomplished and
handsome men of his time, had the misfortune to have a large excrescence
on the tip of his great toe; in order to conceal this imperfection, and
walk easy, he had some shoes made with points turned up of a sufficient
length not to pinch him. No sooner had he these shoes, than every one
was anxious to be like the count. This fashion was so much followed, and
had such a run, that the different degrees of rank were known by the
length of the points of the shoes. Those of the common people were six
inches long, those of citizens a foot; but those of gentlemen, lords,
and princes, were never less than two feet; from whence came the French
proverb _Etre fur un grand pied_ (to be in easy circumstances). These
points to the shoes increased so in length, that it was feared lest they
should affect public order and the established religion: sermons were
preached and ordinances issued against them; the clergy anathematized
them, and Charles V. expressly forbade their being worn.
Thus, every one appeared as if he had an excrescence on the tip of his
great toe; so likewise, in most fashions, every one seems desirous of
concealing imperfections that he has not.
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