Meanwhile, he regretted his incapacity to give them a specimen of the
_alieus_, or fish-meals of the ancients, such as the _jus diabaton_,
the conger-eel, which, in Galen's opinion, is hard of digestion; the
_cornuta_, or gurnard, described by Pliny in his Natural History, who
says, the horns of many were a foot and a half in length; the mullet
and lamprey, that were in the highest estimation of old, of which
last Julius Cæsar borrowed six thousand for one triumphal supper. He
observed, that the manner of dressing them was described by Horace, in
the account he gives of the entertainment to which Maecenas was invited
by the epicure Nasiedenus,
Affertur squillas inter muraena natantes, &c.
and told them, that they were commonly eaten with the _thus Syriacum_,
a certain anodyne and astringent seed, which qualified the purgative
nature of the fish. Finally, this learned physician gave them to
understand, that, though this was reckoned a luxurious dish in the
zenith of the Roman taste, it was by no means comparable, in point of
expense, to some preparations in vogue about the time of that absurd
voluptuary Heliogabalus, who ordered the brains of six hundred ostriches
to be compounded in one mess.
By this time the dessert appeared, and the company were not a little
rejoiced to see plain olives in salt and water: but what the master of
the feast valued himself upon was a sort of jelly, which he affirmed
to be preferable to the _hypotrimma_ of Hesychius, being a mixture of
vinegar, pickle, and honey, boiled to a proper consistence, and candied
assafotida, which he asserted, in contradiction to Aumelbergius and
Lister, was no other than the _laser Syriacum_, so precious as to be
sold among the ancients to the weight of a silver penny. The gentlemen
took his word for the excellency of this gum, but contented themselves
with the olives, which gave such an agreeable relish to the wine, that
they seemed very well disposed to console themselves for the disgraces
they had endured; and Pickle, unwilling to lose the least circumstance
of entertainment that could be enjoyed in their company, went in quest
of the painter, who remained in his penitentials in another apartment,
and could not be persuaded to re-enter the banqueting-room, until
Peregrine undertook to procure his pardon from those whom he had
injured. Having assured him of this indulgence, our young gentleman led
him in like a criminal, bowing on all hands with an air of humility and
contrition; and particularly addressing himself to the count, to whom
he swore in English, as God was his Saviour, he had no intent to affront
man, woman, or child; but was fain to make the best of his way, that he
might not give the honourable company cause of offence, by obeying the
dictates of nature in their presence.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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