If we turn toward the south, we have at our feet the level plain of
the Sarno, in antiquity as now--we may suppose--not checkered with
villages but dotted here and there with groups of farm buildings,
surrounded with stately trees. Beyond the plain rises the lofty
barrier of Monte Sant' Angelo, thickly wooded in places, its summit
standing out against the sky in a long, beautiful profile, which,
toward the right, breaks up into bold, rugged notches; the side of the
mountain below is richly diversified with deep valleys, projecting
ridges, and terraces that in the distance seem like steps, where among
vineyards and olive orchards stand two villages fair to look on,
Gragnano and Lettere, so near that individual houses can be clearly
distinguished. Further west the plain before us opens out upon the
sea, while the mountains are continued in the precipitous coast of the
peninsula of Sorrento. Height crowds upon height, with villages
wreathed in olive orchards lying between. Here the hills descend in
terraces to the sea, covered with vegetation to the water's edge;
there the covering of soil has been cast off from the steep slopes,
exposing the naked rock, which shines in the afternoon sun with a
reddish hue that wonderfully accords with the dark shades of the
foliage and the brilliant blue of the sea. Further on the tints become
duller, and the sight is blurred; only with effort can we distinguish
Sorrento, resting on cliffs that rise almost perpendicularly from the
line of the shore. Further still the outline of the peninsula sinks
into the sea and gives place to Capri, island of fantastic shape,
whose crags rising sheer from the water stand out sharply in the
bright sunlight.
But we look toward the north, and the splendid variety of form and
color vanishes; there stands only the vast, sombre mass of the great
destroyer, Vesuvius, towering above the city and the plain. The sun as
it nears the horizon veils the bare ashen cone with a mantle of deep
violet, while the cloud of smoke that rises from the summit shines
with a golden glow. Far above the base the sides are covered with
vineyards, among which small groups of white houses can here and there
be seen. West of us the outline of the mountain descends in a strong,
simple curve to the sea. Just before it blends with the shore there
rise behind it distant heights wrapped in blue haze, the first of
moderate elevation, then others more prominent and further to the
left. They are the heights along the north shore of the Bay of
Naples--Gaurus crowned with the monastery of Camaldoli, famous for its
magnificent view; the cliffs of Baiae, the promontory of Misenum, and
the lofty cone of Epomeo on the island of Ischia. So the eye traverses
the whole expanse of the Bay; Naples itself, hidden from our view,
lies between those distant heights and the base of Vesuvius.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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