The church then, though interesting from its plan, is--inside
especially--remarkably unpleasing, though it is perhaps only fair to
attribute a considerable part of this disagreeable effect to the state
of decay into which it has fallen--a state which has only advanced far
enough to be squalid and dirty without being in the least picturesque.
Far more pleasing than the church is the round cloister behind. In it
the thirty-six Ionic columns are much better proportioned, and the
capitals better carved; on the cornice stands an attic, rendered
necessary by the barrel vault, heavy indeed, but not too heavy for the
columns below. This attic is panelled, and on it stand obelisk-bearing
pedestals, one above each column, and between them pediments of
strapwork. (Fig. 98.)
Had this cloister been square it would have been in no way very
remarkable, but its round shape as well as the fig-trees that now grow
in the garth, and the many plants which sprout from joints in the
cornice, make it one of the most picturesque buildings in the country.
The rest of the monastic buildings have been in ruins since the siege of
1832.
[Sidenote: Coimbra, Santa Cruz Sacristy.]
The sacristy of Santa Cruz at Coimbra must have been begun before Nossa
Senhora da Serra had been finished. Though so much later--for it is
dated 1622--the architect of this sacristy has followed much more
closely the good Italian forms introduced by Terzi. Like that of the Sé
Velha, the sacristy of Santa Cruz is a rectangular building, and
measures about 52 feet long by 26 wide; each of the longer sides is
divided into three bays by Doric pilasters which have good capitals, but
are themselves cut up into many small panels. The cornice is partly
carried on corbels as in the Serra church, but here the effect is much
better. There are large semicircular windows, divided into three lights
at each end, and
[Illustration: FIG. 98.
OPORTO.
CLOISTER, NOSSA SENHORA DA SERRA DO PILAR.]
[Illustration: FIG. 99.
COIMBRA.
SACRISTY OF STA. CRUZ.]
the barrel vault is covered with deep eight-sided coffers. One curious
feature is the way the pilasters in the north-east corner are carried on
corbels, so as to leave room for two doors, one of which leads into the
chapter-house behind the chancel. (Fig. 99.)
[Sidenote: Lisbon, Santa Engracia.]
Twenty years later was begun the church of Santa Engracia in Lisbon. It
was planned on a great scale; a vast dome in the centre surrounded by
four equal apses, and by four square towers. It has never been finished,
and now only rises to the level of the main cornice; but had the dome
been built it would undoubtedly have been one of the very finest of the
renaissance buildings in the country.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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