Like the Serra church it is, outside, two stories in height having Doric
pilasters below--coupled at the angles of the towers--and Ionic above.
In the western apse, the pilasters are replaced by tall detached Doric
columns, and the Ionic pilasters above by buttresses which grow out of
voluted curves. Large, simply moulded windows are placed between the
upper pilasters, with smaller blank windows above them, while in the
western apse arches with niches set between pediment-bearing pilasters
lead into the church.
Here, in Santa Engracia, is a church designed in the simplest and most
severe classic form, and absolutely free of all the fantastic misuse of
fragments of classic detail which had by that time become so common, and
which characterise such fronts as those of the Sé Nova at Coimbra or the
Collegio Novo at Oporto. The niches over the entrance arches are severe
but well designed, as are the windows in the towers and all the
mouldings. Perhaps the only fault of the detail is that the Doric
pilasters and columns are too tall.
Now in its unfinished state the whole is heavy and clumsy, but at the
same time imposing and stately from its great size; but it is scarcely
fair to judge so unfinished a building, which would have been very
different had its dome and four encompassing towers risen high above the
surrounding apses and the red roofs of the houses which climb steeply up
the hillside.
[Sidenote: Coimbra, Santa Clara.]
The new convent of Santa Clara at Coimbra was begun about the same
time--in 1640--on the hillside overlooking the Mondego and the old
church which the stream has almost buried; and, more fortunate than
Santa Engracia, it has been finished, but unlike it is a building of
little interest.
The church is a rectangle with huge Doric pilasters on either side
supporting a heavy coffered roof. There are no aisles, but shallow altar
recesses with square-headed windows above. The chancel at the south end
is like the nave but narrower; the two-storied nuns' choir is to the
north. As the convent is still occupied it cannot be visited, but
contains the tomb of St. Isabel, brought from the old church, in the
lower choir, and her silver shrine in the upper. Except for the
cloister, which, designed after the manner of the Claustro dos Filippes
at Thomar, has coupled Doric columns between the arches, and above,
niches flanked by Ionic columns between square windows, the rest of the
nunnery is even heavier and more barrack-like than the church. Indeed
almost the only interest of the church is the use of the huge Doric
pilasters, since from that time onward such pilasters, usually as clumsy
and as large, are found in almost every church.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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