A much more pleasing example of the same school--a school doubtless
influenced by the bad example of Churriguera in Spain--is the house
called the Quinta do Freixo on the Douro a mile or so above the town.
Here the four towers with their pointed slate roofs rise in so
picturesque a way at the four corners, and the whole house blends so
well with the parapets and terraces of the garden, that one can almost
forgive the broken pediments which form so strange a gable over the
door, and the still more strange shapes of the windows. Now that factory
chimneys rise close on either side the charm is spoiled, but once the
house, with its turrets, its vase-laden parapets, its rococo windows,
and the slates painted pale blue that cover its walls, must have been a
fit setting for the artificial civilisation of a hundred and fifty years
ago, and for the ladies in dresses of silk brocade and gentlemen in
flowered waistcoats and powdered hair who once must have gone up and
down the terrace steps, or sat in the shell grottoes of the garden.
[Sidenote: Queluz.]
Though less picturesque and fantastic, the royal palace at Queluz,
between Lisbon and Cintra, is another really pleasing example of the
more sober rococo. Built by Dom Pedro III. about 1780, the palace is a
long building with a low tiled roof, and the gardens are rich in
fountains and statues.
[Sidenote: Guimarães, Quinta.]
Somewhat similar, but unfinished, and enriched with niches and statues,
is a Quinta near the station at Guimarães. Standing on a slope, the
garden descends northwards in beautiful terraces, whose fronts are
covered with tiles. Being well cared for, it is rich in beautiful trees
and shrubs.
[Sidenote: Oporto, Hospital and Factory.]
Much more correct, and it must be said commonplace, are the hospital and
the English factory--or club-house--in Oporto. The plans of both have
clearly been sent out from England, the hospital especially being
thoroughly English in design. Planned on so vast a scale that it has
never been completed, with the pediment of its Doric portico unfinished,
the hospital is yet a fine building, simple and severe, not unlike what
might have been designed by some pupil of Chambers.
The main front has a rusticated ground floor with round-headed windows
and doors. On this in the centre stands a Doric portico of six columns,
and at the ends narrower colonnades of four shafts each. Between them
stretches a long range of windows with simple, well-designed
architraves. The only thing, apart from its unfinished condition, which
shows that the hospital is not in England, are some colossal figures of
saints which stand above the cornice, and are entirely un-English in
style.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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