Of later buildings little can be said. Many country houses are pleasing
from their complete simplicity; plastered, and washed pink, yellow, or
white, they are devoid of all architectural pretension, and their low
roofs of red pantiles look much more natural than do the steep slated
roofs of some of the more modern villas.
The only unusual point about these Portuguese houses is that, as a rule,
they have sash windows, a form of window so rare in the South that one
is tempted to see in them one of the results of the Methuen Treaty and
of the long intercourse with England. The chimneys, too, are often
interesting. Near Lisbon they are long, narrow oblongs, with a curved
top--not unlike a tombstone in shape--from which the smoke escapes by a
long narrow slit. Elsewhere the smoke escapes through a picturesque
arrangement of tiles, and hardly anywhere is there to be seen a simple
straight shaft with a chimney can at the top.
For twenty years after the end of the Peninsular War the country was in
a more or less disturbed state. And it was only after Dom Miguel had
been defeated and expelled, and the more liberal party who supported
Dona Maria II. had won the day, that Portugal again began to revive.
In 1834, the year which saw Dom Miguel's surrender, all monasteries
throughout the country were suppressed, and the monks turned out. Even
more melancholy was the fate of the nuns, for they were allowed to stay
on till the last should have died. In some cases one or two survived
nearly seventy years, watching the gradual decay of their homes, a decay
they were powerless to arrest, till, when their death at last set the
convents free, they were found, with leaking roofs, and rotten floors,
almost too ruinous to be put to any use.
The Gothic revival has not been altogether without its effects in
Portugal. Batalha has been, and Alcobaça is being, saved from ruin. The
Sé Velha at Coimbra has been purged--too drastically perhaps--of all the
additions and disfigurements of the eighteenth century, and the same is
being done with the cathedral of Lisbon.
Such new buildings as have been put up are usually much less successful.
Nothing can exceed the ugliness of the new domed tower of the church of
Belem, or of the upper story imposed on the long undercroft. Nor can the
new railway station in the Manoelino style be admired.
Probably the best of such attempts to copy the art of Portugal's
greatest age is found at Bussaco, where the hotel, with its arcaded
galleries and its great sphere-bearing spire, is not unworthy of the
sixteenth century, and where the carving, usually the spontaneous work
of uninstructed men, shows that some of the mediæval skill, as well as
some of the mediæval methods, have survived till the present century.
BOOKS CONSULTED
Hieronymi Osorii Lusitani, Silvensis in Algarviis Episcopi: _De
rebus Emmanuelis, etc._ Cologne, 1597.
Padre Ignacio da Piedade e Vasconcellos: _Historia de Santarem
Edificada_. Lisboa Occidental, 1790.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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