To obviate this danger as far as possible each man opens the fleeces on
a table covered with wire screen, under which circulates a strong
exhaust current of air which is mechanically generated. Thus small
foreign particles and dust in the fleeces are drawn downward. When the
fleece is opened the sorter selects that part of the fleece which is
known to be the coarsest, _i. e._, the breech and a strip along the
center of the back, and puts this in one lot. Next he selects a narrow
strip along the side of the fleece, which is known to be the finest part
of the fleece, and puts this in another lot. Now the neck and the belly
are separated and thrown into their classes. If the whole fleece were a
fine one, and free from kemp, it would be sorted in the same way, but
different parts of the fleece would go into proportionately higher
classes. The lots which these sorters make are known to spin
comparatively definite qualities of yarn. Thus the low breech and the
back of most fleeces will not spin over No. 20 to No. 24 yarns, and the
sides of good fleeces are fine in fiber and will spin No. 40 to No. 60
yarn.
The quantity of mohair which one man can sort varies considerably,
according to the class of mohair which he is given to work upon. One
mill estimated that experts can sort between two and three hundred
pounds of domestic mohair a day, and that it costs about a cent a pound
to thus separate the fleece. After the fleeces are graded, the mohair
is ready to be sent to the mill proper for scouring and spinning.
SCOURING.
To-day the process of washing or scouring the fleece is done by
machinery. The mohair is fed into a machine in which revolve paddles,
which thoroughly mix the fiber with the liquid in this machine. At the
opposite end from where it was fed in, the mohair is rolled out over
warm rollers, and it is ready to be spun. It is claimed, and with some
justice, that American mohair loses or shrinks about 12% to 20% while
passing through this washing machine, and that Turkish mohair only
shrinks about 13%. This may be due to the fact that some of the Turkish
hair had been washed before it was shipped to market, and that by
previous sorting some of the dirt had fallen out of the mohair. Then,
too, some of the American growers are not very careful to keep the
fleeces clean. Straw, sticks, hats, and even stones have been found in
some domestic stuff.
MIXING.
After the mohair is thoroughly cleaned it is ready for spinning or
carding. In order to spin the fibers most economically, evenly and to
the best advantage, some of the mills mix different qualities of mohair
of about the same fineness. For instance, Turkish mohair is mixed with
Texas and California stuff, or Oregon is mixed with Iowa material. The
spinning qualities of mohair from different sections varies, and this
mixing tends to give uniformity. After the fibers have been mixed to
suit, the mohair is run through straightening machines in preparation
for the combing process.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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