Practical Methods of Sewage Disposal for Residences, Hotels and InstitutionsOgden, Henry N. (Henry Neely)
Science
Practical Methods of Sewage Disposal for Residences, Hotels and Institutions
Ogden, Henry N. (Henry Neely)
Sewage disposal
Pipe B in Fig. 5 shows a sludge pipe which may be laid to a suitable
site for disposing of sludge from the tank when the slope of the land
will permit the draining of the sludge by gravity into trenches or onto
a sludge bed. This sludge pipe should be fitted with a valve and valve
stem, and the valve may be inside the tank, as shown in the
illustration, or outside the tank, as shown on pipe A. If such an
arrangement for disposing of sludge is possible, it is manifestly
unnecessary to provide pipe A as shown in Fig. 5, since the supernatant
liquid as well as the sludge may then be piped to a sludge bed or pit.
This bed should be shallow, but of ample capacity to hold the entire
contents of the settling tank. The sludge may then be drawn off about
every six weeks, thereby operating the tank as a settling tank rather
than as a septic tank. It will be found after scum of a certain
thickness has formed on the surface of the sewage in the tank that the
thickness will not materially increase.
The roof of the tank should preferably be of concrete reënforced with
iron rods, although it may be of brick arches or of two-inch planking.
The use of brick for the roof is not advisable, however, since the forms
for the construction of the arches are rather difficult to make, and
brick roofs are apt to be broken down sooner or later through the action
of frost. A wooden roof, also, must be renewed at intervals and is not
as satisfactory as a concrete roof.
[Illustration: FIG. 6.—Section Showing Tank with Concrete Roof and with
Form for Constructing Roof.]
A section of a tank with a concrete roof is shown by Fig. 6, together
with the temporary form built up inside the tank on which to lay the
roof. The form is built by setting 2–inch by 4–inch scantling on wedges
along the walls of the tank in pairs 18 inches apart and bracing these
at the foot. Boards 1½ inches thick and 10 inches wide are then nailed
across the tank to the tops of the scantling, the top edges of the
boards being 1 inch below the top of the walls. A false roof is then
made of boards nailed lengthwise of the tank to the 10–inch boards, and
a layer of concrete 2 inches thick is then placed on the floor thus
made, reaching over the top of the walls to the outside edges. Iron
rods, ¾ of an inch thick and spaced 1 foot apart, are then placed on the
concrete across the tank and reaching to within 1 inch of the outside
edges of the walls. More concrete is then placed over the first layer to
a total depth of 6 inches or 8 inches, depending on the width of the
tank, the concrete being well rammed as it is placed. After the concrete
has set, the wedges may be knocked from under the upright scantling and
the form taken down and removed through the manhole. The manhole covers
and frames, as shown in the illustrations in Chapter III, may be cast at
local foundries or purchased through sewer-pipe dealers.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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