Preliminary report on a visit to the Navaho National Monument, Arizona — John Shaqi
Preliminary report on a visit to the Navaho National Monument, ArizonaFewkes, Jesse Walter
History
Preliminary report on a visit to the Navaho National Monument, Arizona
Fewkes, Jesse Walter
Arizona -- Antiquities; Cliff-dwellings -- Arizona; Navajo National Monument (Ariz.)
Three routes to the Monument have been used by visitors, namely: (1)
that from Bluff, Utah, by way of Oljato or Moonwater canyon; (2) that
from Gallup, New Mexico, via the Chin Lee valley, and (3) that from
Flagstaff, via Tuba and the Moenkopi wash. The disadvantages of the
first route, that used by most visitors, are the isolation of Bluff
from railroads, the treacherous character of the San Juan river, which
must be crossed, and the rugged country near Marsh pass. From the
Gallup road it would be possible to go through the Canyon de Chelly in
full view of many of its greatest cliff-dwellings, and while facilities
for outfitting and purchasing supplies along the route are not of the
best, this route has its advantages.
ROUTE FROM FLAGSTAFF TO MARSH PASS
The writer outfitted at Flagstaff, Arizona, and, following the “Tuba
road,” forded the Little Colorado at Tanners crossing, and continued on
to Tuba, a Navaho Indian agency situated near the Moenkopi wash, where
there is a trading place at which provisions can be had. The road from
Flagstaff to Tuba is well traveled, its sole drawback being the ford
of the river, the bottom of which at times is treacherous. Immediately
after leaving Flagstaff this route passes through a pine forest, which
offers many attractive camping places and where water can always be
obtained. For the greater part of the distance Sunset and O’Leary peaks
are in full view and the beautiful San Francisco mountains are likewise
conspicuous. After crossing Deadmans flat the road descends to Indian
Tanks, situated near the lower limit of the cedar trees; here is a
fairly good camping place where water is generally available. From this
camp to Halfway House[16] one crosses a semiarid desert, where wood and
water are hard to find.
[Illustration:
BUREAU OF AMERICAN ETHNOLOGY BULLETIN 50 PLATE 5
RUIN B AT MARSH PASS]
One of the most interesting landmarks visible from the road, after
leaving Indian Tanks, is called Superstition mountain, an elevation
situated to the north. According to Navaho stories, phantom fires are
sometimes seen on this mountain on dark nights, recalling an incident,
mentioned in the Snake legend, which occurred when the Snake clans came
south in their early migration from Tokónabi. This legend states that
all this land once belonged to their Fire God, Masauû, who was likewise
god of the surface of the earth. Lights moving around the mesas are
said to have been seen by these ancient inhabitants much as they are
now ascribed to Superstition mountain.
The traveler over the recent lava beds and cinder plains in the
neighborhood of the San Francisco mountains can readily accept the
statement that the early Hopi saw flames issuing from the earth or the
glow of hot lava, which gave substance to the legend still preserved
among this people. It was so natural for them to regard such a country
as the property of their Fire God that their legends state they
inherited the land from him.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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