Principles and Practice of Fur Dressing and Fur DyeingAustin, William E.
Science
Principles and Practice of Fur Dressing and Fur Dyeing
Austin, William E.
Fur -- Dressing and dyeing
In tests made to determine the best working temperatures for dyeing
skins dressed by the salt-acid tan, and for skins dressed by the chamois
process, some very interesting facts were brought out. These two tans
were chosen because they represent opposite extremes, the salt-acid tan
usually giving the poorest results, and the chamois tan giving the best
results in practise in dyeing. Other methods, except the chrome, range
between these two. The procedure in these experiments was to treat the
skins at ordinary temperatures in water, or dilute solutions of the
various chemicals and dyes usually employed in dyeing, and then heat these
solutions until the leather just began to shrink and shrivel up. This
point, called the shrinking point (S.P.), gave the temperature to which
the skins could be subjected in the given solution without danger to the
pelt. (The experiments and observations were made by Erich Schlottauer,
while director of a large German fur dressing and dyeing plant).
The first observation made was that different furs tanned by the same
process were affected differently in the same solutions. Thus in plain
water, three furs, all tanned by the acid-salt tan, had shrinking points
varying by several degrees; similarly with two different furs tanned by
the chamois process, there was a variation in the shrinking point of two
degrees. The explanation of this discrepancy among the different skins may
be that there was a slight difference in the conditions under which they
were tanned, experiments showing that a maximum difference of 4° C. may
exist among skins tanned by the same process, but not under the same or
identical circumstances. Another reason for the variation may be the fact,
that some skins are more greasy than others, and are thus more resistant
to the effects of water or of some chemicals. The furs with the higher
shrinking points in water were those which naturally are more greasy than
the others.
Weak solutions of acids tend slightly to lower the shrinking point, while
weak solutions of alkalies appreciably raise it, in both chamois-tanned
and salt-acid-tanned skins. Solutions of dyes and mordants as a general
rule increase the resistance of the skin to heat, varying quantities of
these substances having no, or little different effects on the shrinking
points. Previous treatment of the leather with some oil considerably
raises the shrinking point of the pelt. Formaldehyde effects a great
increase of the resistance of the skins to heat, especially with
chamois-tanned furs. The experiments in this case were made by first
treating the skins in the weak formaldehyde solution, and then determining
the shrinking point in plain water.
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