Principles and Practice of Fur Dressing and Fur DyeingAustin, William E.
Science
Principles and Practice of Fur Dressing and Fur Dyeing
Austin, William E.
Fur -- Dressing and dyeing
In discussing fur dyeing, the question naturally arises, “Why dye furs at
all? Are not furs most attractive in their natural colors, and therefore
more desirable than those which acquire their color through the artifices
of man?” The answer cannot be given simply. Natural furs of the more
valuable kinds are indeed above comparison with the majority of dyed furs.
Yet there are several reasons which fully justify and explain the need
for fur dyeing, for at the present time, this branch of the fur industry
is almost as important and indispensable as the dressing of furs.
The first application of dyeing to furs, had for its purpose the
improvement of skins which were poor or faulty in color; or rather, the
object was to hide such defects. As nearly as can be ascertained, this
practise was instituted at some time during or before the fourteenth
century, for fur dyeing seems to have been common during that period, as
is apparent from the verses of a well-known German satirist, Sebastian
Brant, who lived in the latter part of the fourteenth century:
“Man kann jetzt alles Pelzwerk färben,
Und tut es auf das schlechste gerben.”
However, at a later period, there was a general condemnation of the dyeing
of furs, and among the list of members of the furrier’s guilds, none can
be found who are described as dyers. There is a record of a decree issued
by a prince in a German city in the sixteenth century, prohibiting the
practise of fur dyeing. Inasmuch as furs were worn only by the nobility
and certain other privileged classes, and also were very costly, there
was great profit to be had by dyeing inferior skins so as to disguise the
poor color, and then selling such furs at the price of superior quality
skins. This was undoubtedly the reason for the prohibitory decree, but
there were some who continued to practise the forbidden art in secret,
using secluded and out-of-the-way places for their workshops, and mixing
their carefully-guarded recipes with as much mystery as the witches did
their magic potions. These circumstances probably account for the great
amount of mystery which has been, and still is to a considerable degree,
attached to fur dyeing, and also explains the opprobrium and distrust with
which fur dyers were formerly regarded.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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