Principles and Practice of Fur Dressing and Fur DyeingAustin, William E.
Science
Principles and Practice of Fur Dressing and Fur Dyeing
Austin, William E.
Fur -- Dressing and dyeing
Even at the present time, dyeing is often employed to improve furs which
are faulty in color. It frequently happens, that in a lot of skins there
are some which are considerably off shade, or in which the color is such
as to appreciably reduce their value below the average, the hair being
usually too light a shade, or of uneven coloring. By carefully dyeing
these skins of inferior color, they can be made to match very closely
the best colored skins of the particular lot of furs, and consequently
increase their value. With most of the cheaper kinds of furs, the trouble
and cost of improvement by dyeing would not be worth while today; but with
some of the more valuable furs, and especially such as are very highly
prized, like the Russian sable, or marten, or chinchilla, the darkening
of light skins by the skillful application of fast dyes to the extreme
tips of the hair, will increase their value sufficiently to warrant the
expense. This dyeing or “blending” as it is called in such cases, is done
in such a clever and artistic manner that only experts can distinguish
them from the natural. Dyeing used for such purposes is not objectionable,
provided the skins are sold as dyed or “blended.”
There are certain kinds of furs, such as the various lambs, Persian,
Astrachan, Caracul, etc., which are never used in their natural color,
because it is usually of a rusty brownish-black. These are furs possessing
valuable qualities otherwise, so they are dyed a pretty shade of black,
which brings out the beauty of the fur to the fullest extent. Sealskins
are also dyed always. Formerly they were dyed a deep, rich dark brown,
resembling the finest shades of the natural color, but now the seals are
dyed black with a brownish undertone, a color quite different from the
natural. While these two instances cannot be said to be cases of dyeing
to disguise faulty color, they are examples of improvement of color by
dyeing.
Closely associated with the use of dyes to increase the value of a fur
by improving its color, is the dyeing of skins of a certain lot of furs
to produce a uniform shade, thereby facilitating or to a considerable
degree eliminating the task of matching the skins by the furrier. This is
usually done only on skins which are quite small, of which a great many
are needed in the manufacture of fur garments, because the matching of
several hundred skins would entail too much time and labor commensurate
with the value of the fur. The most notable instance of the use of dyes to
produce a uniform shade on furs is the case of the moleskin. Occasionally,
furs are dyed after being made into garments, by careful application of
dyes, in order to obtain certain harmonious effects, such as uniformity
of stripe, or to produce a desired gradation of shade among the different
skins comprising the garment.
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