Principles and Practice of Fur Dressing and Fur DyeingAustin, William E.
Science
Principles and Practice of Fur Dressing and Fur Dyeing
Austin, William E.
Fur -- Dressing and dyeing
The origin of the term is obscure, but it is interesting to note that
in the fur dyeing countries other than the United States and England,
the corresponding expression is used: in Germany, “töten,” and in France
“tuer.” The explanation of the process is as follows: The surface of the
hair is covered with a fine coat of fatty material which renders the hair
more or less impervious to dye solutions and solutions of other substances
which may be used for dyeing purposes. This fatty coating of the hair
cannot be removed by mechanical means, otherwise the hair would have
been freed of it during the dressing operations. Chemical solvents must
therefore be resorted to, and naturally alkaline materials are used, these
being usually cheapest and also most effective in their dissolving action
on fatty substances. Alcohol, ether, benzine, and other similar liquids
also serve as killing agents on furs, since they too, are fat solvents.
In all these cases, the fatty substance on the hair is dissolved away,
and the protective coat which previously rendered the hair impervious
to the dye, is now removed. There are certain chemicals however, which
normally do not dissolve substances of a fatty nature, but are strongly
oxidizing, such as peroxide of hydrogen, hypochlorites, permanganates,
perborates, nitric acid, etc., and exert a killing action when they are
applied to the hair, in that the hair is made capable of taking up the
dye from its solutions. In this case the killing can hardly be said to
be due to a degreasing process. The fact that killing can be brought
about with other substances than alkalies or fat solvents, has led to
the belief on the part of some investigators in this field that killing
is more than a degreasing operation, although the removal of the fatty
material of the hair undoubtedly takes place. Some authorities consider
that the killing process changes the pigment of the hair, which thereby
becomes more receptive to the dye. It is quite possible that some such
change in the structure of the hair fibre does take place, the surface
of the hair becoming slightly roughened, and therefore more capable of
fixing the coloring matter. The question is still an open one, and since
no conclusive researches have been made as yet, it will be assumed that
killing is simply a degreasing process, inasmuch as the modern practise
is based on this supposition, and very satisfactory results are obtained.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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